Kuka KR30/2 and KRC1 manual and cable diagrams.

  • Hello everyone, first post here. My school is currently trying to restore a KR30/2 that has been inactive for some years. It currently has no cables and we have no idea if it is working, so we're first of all gathering some information to try to evaluate if we even can restore it.

    We currently have no funding for the project. It's a public school from Brazil and we'd need a very good justification to request any money for this (thus the need for the manuals).

    I've found this in the forum: http://www.docin.com/p-413723308.html

    But it's for KR30-3, and I'm not sure it's the same, so I'm trying to find info on KR30/2.

    Here is a photograph: :)


  • Lemster68

    Approved the thread.
  • Thanks Fubini, I've been trying to register at the site you sent, though it requires me to contact kuka to complete the registration, so I'm still waiting a response.

    I've read the "read first" article. Any special reason you recommended it? I don't feel like I've done anything I shouldn't, but if I have please point it out to me.

    Again, thank you for the answer, and if anyone else can help, we're in need of it.

  • You don't need any response from Kuka, just create an account by yourself.

    it requires "real" email (company, school or whatever). Yahoo or similar don't seem to work.

    1) read pinned topic: READ FIRST...

    2) if you have an issue with robot, post question in the correct forum section... do NOT contact me directly

    3) read 1 and 2

  • Well, for one thing, you haven't provided any information on the controller. That's important, b/c different controller generations could use different cables for the same robots.

    Photos of the actual cable connections on the robot would also be helpful.

    Details on whether this robot includes any external axes?

    "Has no cables" is very vague. Are you missing just the cables between the controller and the robot? Or more than those?

  • Guys, thanks for the answers, I've been kind of floating in a void when trying to get some information. Having someone who can give me a bit of direction is very helpful.

    panic mode, I had noticed that, but thought they'd be a bit more fast and willing to answer any request. I was able to register with my university account, which I rarely use. So thank you.

    Fubini, thanks again.

    SkyeFire, as I said, I have no documentation and haven't been able to get information, so I had no idea what was important. Here is a photograph of the controller, (is this its ID plate?)

    Edit: also, I don't know which cables are missing. I'm sure the cables that connect the robot to the controller are missing, but I'm guessing there may be more missing cables. I'm hoping to find some information about which cables should be there.

  • Of course the label is wrecked. But this looks like a KRC1. Well, at least it's not a VKRC....

    We'll need a photo of the entire controller from the front. And a photo of the lower bulkhead from underneath -- where all the cable sockets are in the lower front panel of the controller.

    In the upper corner of the front panel of the controller, there should be a large high-voltage disconnect. This usually has to be wired to 480VAC 3-phase power, but some KRCs were delivered with different transformers.

    If you look at the back of the robot base, there should be two empty cable sockets on a black junction box -- one large rectangular one, and one small cylindrical one. They should have labels that match similarly-shaped sockets on the KRC. The rectangular connector is motor power, the cylindrical one is the resolver/encoder cable.

    The KRC should have another rectangular cable socket labelled X11. That's where all the safety wiring goes, and to start with, you'll probably need to wire some jumpers in there.

    The large rectangular connectors are Harting brand connectors. You'll probably have to buy an "empty" one for X11, then wire up the individual pins to satisfy the safety circuit. Keep in mind that once you insert pins into one of these connectors, it's hard to remove the pins without a special tool (or a thin-walled tube of exactly the right size).

    Power to the cabinet, and two cables from the cabinet to the robot, should be all you need to power up the robot. X11 will be necessary before the robot can actually move. The Harting connectors are pretty robust, but be very careful with the resolver connector -- it's easy to mis-align them and screw the jacket down, damaging the pins.

    The photo also shows that this robot originally shipped with a Profibus option, but that's something to look at later.

    Given how old this robot is, I strongly recommend removing the hard drive, putting it in a temporary enclosure, and making a full image backup (using Clonezilla, Acronis, or something similar). If the hard drive were to fail, getting replacement system software would be difficult, at best.

  • Skye, thanks so much. You've actually given me more than I can understand right now, but I'm studying and I'm sure I'll be able to understand. I've been in contact with Kuka and they've confirmed that the controller I have is indeed a KRC1, so you're correct and I thank you for confirming. I think I'll only be able to take those pictures on Thursday, but luckily I've already taken one photo of the cable sockets.

    I'll be studying a bit more and I'll be back later this week to post more information and ask for more help. Thanks again!

  • So yeah, it took me a bit more than a week to come back. Ended up doing some other stuff at the school, sorry about that. I uploaded pictures I presumed were relevant to 3 albums in the following links. Once again, I'm really grateful for all the help you guys have been giving me.

    Here is the album for the controller.

    Here is the album for the robot arm.

    Here is the album for the control.

    Also, we've been talking to a supplier (about getting its cables) and they asked us to identify the "drive" for this robot, but we have no idea of what the "drive" is. Anyone knows? The supplier wasn't very helpful about how to identify it.

  • Arthur do Canto Pivetta

    Changed the title of the thread from “Kuka KR30/2 manual and cable diagrams.” to “Kuka KR30/2 and KRC1 manual and cable diagrams.”.
  • does not sound like they are familiar with this type of product. Maybe refering to controller... or If you open controller cabinet, then swing open internal panel you will see the actual "drive". It is PM600 if i recall. Several versions exist like GM etc. But they are compatible with several robot sizes.

    1) read pinned topic: READ FIRST...

    2) if you have an issue with robot, post question in the correct forum section... do NOT contact me directly

    3) read 1 and 2

    • Helpful

    I don't think it is a VKRC. IIRC, that (V)KRC label was used on the parts of KRC1 hardware that were common between both controller types. The VKRCs were mostly standard KRCs, with a few relatively minor hardware changes, and some more serious software changes, for Volkswagen's special requirements (hence the 'V').

    The reason I don't think it's a VKRC is that it has a "normal" X11 safety connector on the lower bulkhead. It's been a long time, but from what I recall, the V-models used a different connector with a different label for the same functionality.

  • As always, any information is appreciated. So thank you guys.

    From the label I now know this KRC-1 is powered by 400V AC, right? What should happen if I connect it correctly to a power source and turn it on without it being connected to the robot arm?

    Can I test if the control is working this way?

  • you can... there will be bunch of error messages but you can also change controllers environment to Office and should happily "work" without arm.

    1) read pinned topic: READ FIRST...

    2) if you have an issue with robot, post question in the correct forum section... do NOT contact me directly

    3) read 1 and 2

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