HI EVERYONE.
WE HAVE VOL TMON FAIL ON FUJITSU MOTHERBOARD IN KUKA ROBOT
WHAT WE DO?WE LOST 2 MOTHERBOARD NOW?
WHAT IS VOL TMON FAIL?
HI EVERYONE.
WE HAVE VOL TMON FAIL ON FUJITSU MOTHERBOARD IN KUKA ROBOT
WHAT WE DO?WE LOST 2 MOTHERBOARD NOW?
WHAT IS VOL TMON FAIL?
VOLTage MONitoring maybe. Check your electricity. And read specification of mainboard what voltages are feasible.
Fubini
It is a self diagnostics feature of the motherboard. Several key voltages are used to power different parts of the motherboards and monitors check if the supply to those areas are ok. As mentioned It indicates that voltage monitor is triggered. as long as i remember, this is common. It was the same thing i saw on every failed motherboard of this type...
And the failures are always related to power outage or cycling power...
Never had chance to investigate but suspect changing characteristics due aging of components, likely in the psu or motherboard itself.
>> In general:
All components age and get worse over time, but some are more likely to fail or change parameters sooner than others.
Semiconductors tend to be rather stable unless subject to heat. This is why in case of failure one normally makes the power semiconductors primary suspects.
Inductors are normally quite robust too unless insulation starts to degrade. This can be due to heat or overvoltage.
Same goes for resistors.
Components that age least gracefully are capacitors and connectors.
Solid state capacitors are quite stable but electrolytic caps leak, lose capacitance over time, and whole range of problems could result from this, including insufficient filtering or ripple reduction, timing problems allowing to larger transients, leaks allow corrosion, place for dust to accumulate etc.
Connections and connectors are another common problem.
Just about all of the internal connectors are only meant for limited number of insertions. Many are rated for just 3-5 insertions. That includes all Molex and card edge connector. Beyond rated number of insertions they lose ability to maintain proper grip and sufficiently low resistance of the connections. They also tend to oxidize, lose material with each insertion, female contact tend to deform or flare up, male contacts tend to bend, both can be pushed out etc. All this creates problems, either no connection or connection with higher resistance which is a poor contact. The worst of all are the intermittent problems.
>> The point is:
Handle all connections with care. Always inspect contacts before mating and be gentle when inserting or removing plugs - specially internals ones.
The older something is and the harder it worked (more energy moved/dissipated) the greater the
Make sure batteries are in good condition and make regular backup unless you have money to throw away.
likelihood that it will fail. You need to count on that and plan accordingly.
Do the homework and take maintenance seriously. Do not dive in every few days and swap dozens of components for fun. You are literally wearing them down.
And every time you do connect something, check the contacts. One common problem is misplaced or damaged O-ring on some of connectors, specially the X21-X31 data cable (KRC to RDC). Without O-ring connector is not sitting right, it can move and cause stresses on contacts with some intermittent problems.
Do not use compressed air or regular shopvac on anything inside or outside of the KRC.
Compressed air forces dust into tight pockets in connectors, inductors, under ICs, into bearings etc.
Vacuum need to be ESD rated - air flow causes a lot of friction and builds static electricity to dangerous levels.
Block fans from rotating when cleaning them up. spinning fans by bringing external air flow (compressed air or vac) will make them spin too but they will work as generators, not motors. Such backdriving without control can also be detrimental. So do not use compressed air, use vac after you put something between blades to prevent them from spinning.
>> Troubleshooting and repair tips:
Carefully inspect connections and any plugs/receptacles.
Check for bulgy or leaky capacitors.
Check for discolored components and places where dust may collect, specially places where dust coverage is uneven.
Measure voltages and see if they are in range. document values for later - this can be handy when things don't work. If you have FLIR, check for hotspots, otherwise try aiming hot or cool air to suspect components. Hot air guns have different types of nozzle to help direct airflow. For cooling, there are special sprays. The physics here is simple. Normally things shrink when cooled and expand when heated. When there is a intermittent connection, changing temperature can make it open/close.
If testing PSU, try some dummy load or something sacrificial - in case PSU pukes, you don't want to lose good motherboard or HDD.
If you are intending to repair motherboard, make sure you know what you are doing and have right tools. Motherboards have any layers of tracks, not just top and bottom. The result is they are acting as sheet of copper and spread heat very well. This means soldering/desoldering is very hard and repair attempts are likely to stress or damage other components. This is best left to someone experienced.
About voltage monitoring... Digital circuits operate at different voltages. the standard for years was 5V but to reduce power draw many things are designed to operate at lower voltages such as 3.3V, 2.5V etc. CPUs tend to have own regulator since they work at even lower voltages.
I have the same error as you, don't know if you know what it is, can you fix it?
voltage monitor reports that one of voltage supplies is not working. to fix the problem you need to locate and replace defective components. unfortunately motherboard had tons of parts meaning that repair would require specific info, skills and tool set.
this is why repair in this case is board replacement, not board repair.