Did you put the other D328 back in?
Posts by Lemster68
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It is not F0, the Argument or parameter reads ARGF, then the value follows. In the called job you should see GETARG instruction which will assign that to a local variable in order to do something with it.
Like this: GETARG LR000 IARG#(1)
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Both the e-stops, ES1 and ES2 must have matching state within so many milliseconds. If they are both lit now, try a restart. You could also press the robot e-stop to ensure that you see both go out. Again, restart.
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It only got bid up to $7500, but the reserve was not met. I don't do Kuka, but that was a clean, nice looking one there.
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The folks over at RoboDK seem to be pretty cool with getting people trials, maybe even more than the 30 days. You should make sure that your robot model is supported.
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Read this thread, starts out pretty long time ago but has more current posts.
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The language is ARLA. There was something, I think, to let you make some programs offline. But it is so old I do not remember what it was called and doubt you can find it. You would need to use the pendant to program, if you have the controller up and operational.
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If you build your own controller, it will be in the language that you choose for it. It would have been ARLA, but you said you are removing the S3 controller to use your own.
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This one here is probably going to go way up from right now, but you can hope...
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Is that while it is stationary or in motion? Or both? Are you really zoomed in on the subject? That will make it more obvious any vibrations.
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Try wearing a helmet for your head and padding, guarding for the rest of your body.
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Also, the key disc is what identifies YOUR robot, if you use a different one it might be the wrong robot type and have more or less options that were available to YOUR robot. I suggest that you continue to communicate with ABB to get the right key disc.
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Would that be S4, S4C, S4C+?
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Robodoc Perfect! After confirming that the robot had been lubricated, I got that reset. I see that setting the parameter to "1" enables the reset button. Back to "0" it the reset is no longer available.
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Thank you, will check it out. I will first check to see that the lubrication has been performed. After all, that is what I am told that it is asking. Picture the TinMan from Wizard of Oz--"Oil can"
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Check the connections, pins and cables. Ensure that the cable runs are separate from high power cables like welding power cables. Look for other error messages at the same time. Follow the steps provided with the error messages.