Have you tried zeroing it in the order I suggested?
Can you write a brief note of how you zero'd it prior to this problem occurring?
Is JT4 and JT6 correct - ie could you have zero'd any of these 180 degrees out?
After I replaced the battery and run the program. Tool was not straight at the pickup place but a little rotated. I figured the jt6 encoder was off. I recalibrated this by resetting the Encoder Counter and saving the 'correct' zero values. (Like you suggested).
All joints (besides 6) were not changed.
If you use calculated position, e.g. points in a grid with calculated rows and columns, accurate zeroing is very important. I agree the lines are useless.
Kawasaki offers zeroing jigs for some robot types, but you can easily create your own. Just use an accurate machine spirit level (scale 0.02mm/m).I had very good results with this, zeroing with the lines gave a fault of about 3-4 mm in less than a meter distance, after zeroing the fault was practically eliminated, less than 0.1mm/m.
The robot does calculate a grid. Right now I hardcode the grid with a deviation to make up for the inaccuracy.
I will try your calibration 'manual'. THANKS
Is there also a 'special way to zero JT6?