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Posts by Leon

    Well how are you sending the files to the robot?

    I assume you are just dropping it on the hard drive through a network connection. I can tell you that that is never going to work. When a KRC2 boots all files are basically loaded in to the RAM memory. so changing anything on the hard drive wont work.


    Look up the Kuka directory loader, that is what you need to get it working.

    Watchdog errors can have several causes:

    • Bad connection (from kcp to KRC, but also on the inside where that cable is looped through the esc card, and finally on the pc)
    • Bad connection (from robot to KRC)
    • Bad/damaged cable on the kcp
    • Bad/damaged cable to the RDW
    • Noise from other (badly or not shielded) cables.

    I normally start with swapping out the kcp, but if that is not an option the only thing you can do is check all the connections and check if there are no other cables next to KCP cable that can give noise. Like a motor cable that is connected to a frequency drive.

    I am sorry i don't. Whenever i get stuck somewhere i use this forum or go to kuka belgium myself. That can be a bit expensive but in my case it cost more money to have a not working robot.


    But if your robot is functional there is no need to get kuka involved (yet). Although i will always recommend proper kuka training i can understand that if you want to use this robot as a hobby more than a actual job that training might be a bit expensive.


    The basics you need to learn/do:

    • Some sort of safety system connected (emergency button and safety gates).
    • Robot mastered and correct mada selected (if your controller and robot havent been mixed then you should be fine.)
    • A spindle mounted (with or whithout a toolchanger)
    • To be able to teach a base and tool.
    • make a simple program using the kuka inline forms


    When you can do or have done the steps above you can start thinking about programming krl directly

    your almost there, you mention KR4 which isn't a thing so you would mean the KRC4 controller with possible a KR... robot running which software version? this all cleary in the "read first" topic that all this information is necessary. especially with specific questions like this.

    Please read "read first" your missing information in your post.


    Also that is not going to be that easy. so far as my knowledge goes there is no data saved to the drives. It all stays in the RAM memory.


    There are options for writing files but i have no experience with that.

    Well this will definitely keep you of the streets, because the most important thing you need is time.


    My advice is start simple cut a square or round hole or something like that. and build up from there. the sample program i gave is for cutting a square box down to the right size, so this can give you a head start.


    By the way, what do you want to mill? and for what purpose?

    O that is close, i am from dongen (originally geertruidenberg 8o)


    I am willing to help, but i dont have the time to get onsite and do programming

    It also helps to be specific on what it stopping you from writing KRL. In the expert programming manual there are a lot of examples of how a basic program is structured. So start there.


    But i am in a good mood so i added one of my basic milling programs.

    Please be specific, "says something about joystick error" is meaningless. i you want any help then post the full message with error code, and if there are more post all off them!


    also buying a used machine without schematics is not the smartest thing to do, especially when it as old as this one.

    well this is an interesting one. Fortunately we can rule somethings out.

    In your case after remastering you could remove your offsets so a problem with the mount of the robot seams unlikely. And based on your mastering check data your mastering seems to be really drifting.


    I can only guess at what the cause of this is, but in the only way i know that mastering can drift is when the robot is moved with the kabinet powered down or not communicating. The only time a have heard about something like this was with a robot with a heavy AOT and the brakes on A2 slipping when the robot was left overnight. But in this case it was only 1 axis and the drift was between 1 or 2 degrees so it was pretty obvious.

    In general i only master my robots once a year during maintenance, but they also get remastered after big collisions or other malfunctions. Basically whenever i have someone from kuka over to fix anything i always ask if they can check the mastering. (i dont have a mastering tool myself).


    The drift you describe seems not normal to me. How much drift do you have in your points? Can see a significant difference between mastering positions of for example a2 en a3?


    are you sure that it is the mastering that drifts? not the mounting of the robot?

    Guessing that you don't have any I/O installed? and no other communication cards in the PC, then basically your only option is Devicenet. so you need a devicenet I/O module. Look this up on the forum. You are not the first to ask this question.

    What system are you working with?

    What is the setup of your E2 axis?


    Basically $vel.cp is the speed of your TCP, but this can have different meanings when your external axis is kinematically integrated or not.

    There is now way to just turn of "gear torque control" as you put it. In this case and judging by the foto's i think the arm could also be stuck on the calibration point, so your best option is probably to move the arm by hand. And if it is truly stuck that might also be a problem.

    We are still missing something here, a normal robot never hits his physical endstops. There are software limits before it. if you where able to move past it someone must have changed them or they where wrong from the start.


    Depending on which it is restoring back-up could help or it could not.


    As a last resort you should be able to move the arm by hand if you can access the motor of A2 (I have never worked with a KR16 so i dont exactly know how they are put together but i assume it is similar as the bigger models). In this case you have 2 options:


    1. Secure the arm and remove the motor. I can not recommend this because you dont seem to have a lot of experience with robots. But after a motor is pulled from the gearbox it should be pretty easy move the arm and place the motor back. in case you go for this option please be mindfull that without an motor installed there is nothing to keep the arm in stationary.

    2. Hand crank the motor, by far the easiest way the only drawback is you will damage the brake in the engine.


    Before you attempt either make sure that there isn't something else you or your technician missed. any setting you changed or anything you might have been experimenting with.