As a zero cost exercise, I would put the arm into the calibration position and support the upper arm. Drain the oil from axis 3 and check for metal contamination (would indicate mechanical damage) then remove the motor (engine) so you can look inside the gearbox for damage. While the motor is off you can run axis 3 only (use joint mode) which should prove if it's a servo/amp/control/wiring etc. issue or if it runs OK start looking for a mechanical problem in the drivetrain/gearbox.
Posts by RoboWeld
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My favourite at the moment is a Kingston MobileLite, but I do tend to lose them before they break or wear out
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Another option is to mount the robot (and it's associated equipment) on a steel chassis which will give a larger footprint and spread the load.
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Your answer "the noise happens in whatever position the robot was left in" makes me wonder if it is the brake sticking on, worn or badly adjusted?.
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Have you tried releasing the brake on axis 3 and moving it by hand to feel for any tight spots or jamming?.
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Both robots should go to "motors off" state when you access the cell. Fit a couple of "programmers" keyswitches (one for each robot) inside the cell, should be dual channel wired through safety relay/safety PLC etc. to allow the relevant robot to be enabled. The keys may be issued to an authorised/trained person or part of an interlocked key exchange system fitted to the access gate. You could be clever and fit a 3 position keyswitch (Robot 1 - off - Robot 2) assuming you would never need to run both robots at the same from inside the cell.
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Looks like a classic case where SearchL would be used.
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You will also accumulate/make special tools to make life easier, example, I made a 2 foot long Allen key to allow me to change the base axis motor on ABB Irb6 in a fraction of the time needed if you follow the factory approved method
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It looks like SkyeFire has covered most of the kit, I would add a small dentist type mirror for looking in places you can't get your head (you soon learn to read part numbers backwards) and one of the LED multi torches with a magnetic base. I used an Antler toolcase (still got it 25 years later) but it looks like they're no longer available, here's an equivalent http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tool-cases/0460178/ I had one of those folding luggage frames with a couple of wheels on for carting it any distance.
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If the clamps were servo driven (by the robot) they could be external axes, but generally those sort of clamps are pneumatic operated by valves driven by the robot I/O (Input/Output)
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Can you elaborate?, do you mean physical (hand) tools, software tools or training can be classed as a tool.
...and welcome to the forum.
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I've always kept the power on for battery changes, also found it useful to put a date sticker on the new battery.
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Pick & place, welding, painting, to name a few.
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It also depends on what the material you are picking is made of, the smoother the material, the less often you need to change the cups, we use them to pick up glass about 5000 cycles per week and they last for years.
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I would suggest careful measuring of core numbers and types then cross reference with a specialist cable supplier such as Lapp or Igus
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It can also help to have a process knowledge such as welding where knowing the correct torch angle etc. to use is helpful.
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ESAB welders integrate well with ABB robots, I've seen good results of SKS welders on Fanuc robots too, I did like the ability to network the SKS welders so they could be monitored & adjusted from a central PC.
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If you want speed and accuracy the ABB Flexpicker is one to consider
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I've also been thinking that maybe the sync does not complete or work properly because my gripper has no compressed air and maybe can not verify if the gripper is open or closed or something..
The gripper has no effect on the synchronising unless it physically stops axis 4/5 from achieving position.
Have a look at the Irb6 product manual Skooter has put in the manuals section and look at the maintenance section, it shows the lubrication points, capacities and recommended lubricants.
Axis 1 is filled from a plug on the top rear of the main body and the drain is a capped tube accessed by unbolting the umbilical connection plate on the base and reaching inside (you will also feel a tufnol tube hanging down from the motor, this is for adjusting Axis 1 resolver)
Axes 4 & 5 have plugs top and bottom of the Aluminium (Aluminum?) ring between the motor/gearbox and the robot body, drain on the bottom and fill on the top, it takes a while to fill due to the small holes