Thanks panic mode. I ended up using the Harting configuration tool on their website and it spit out the parts needed. For anyone in the future finding this I used:
1x 19 30 016 0428 HOOD
1x 19 00 000 5098 GLAND
1x 09 14 016 0361 FRAME
2x 09 14 012 3101 INSERT FEMALE
2x 09 14 012 3001 INSERT MALE
25x 09 15 000 6101 PIN MALE
25x 09 15 000 6201 PIN FEMALE
I ordered extra pins as I have been known to screw a couple crimps up. Not all the inserts on the robot side are used anyway
I understand Kuka support has ended for these. Asking if a person who went through the same happens to have a parts list seems logical and would help others in the future in the same scenario. Harting has 10's of thousands of parts and searching for them is time consuming. Turning a multiple hour job into mere minutes by ordering a handful of parts from Mouser makes sense to me.
Hey, all. So, I need to wire up the X40 SafeOp connectors on some old KRC2 robots that came from the factory with SafeOp installed, but the owner never configured or activated SafeOp. Until now (some 10 years later).
I'm having a devil of a time tracking down the Harting connector number for the X40. From the SafeOp manual graphics, it appears to be a modular Harting, but I need the actual part number(s) in order to build a compatible cable. Just to ice the cake, I also need to make it a Hi-Flex/Cat-Track rated cable, since the robots are mounted on 10m KL1500 linear units.
Did you ever come up with a parts list for the x40 connector? Tried searching the part numbers listed by panic mode on my.kuka but half of them are discontinued through Kuka and the other half are 3-4 weeks out.
Hi,The best way to check the charging circuit or more precisely the batteries is to connect a load across its terminals. You can simply connect a lamp load and check if the lamps are glowing or not. If not then you need a replacement of batteries.
Checking batteries with multimeter will always show you the potential across its terminals as it is the battery property. Check your batteries as I mentioned and you will find the results.
Thanks
Hello, just tried this and the batteries checked out good. Started at 12.8V, with a very bright (don't know the wattage) lamp the voltage slowly dropped with about 12.1/12.0V and held steady. Just to sort things out I went through my box of new batteries and found a bad one that dropped to 8V with the same lamp, so thank you for your recommendation. Unfortunately it didn't solve it, the search continues.
Have you checked the charge circuit is charging ?Also if its a krc 1 then the RDW could of come to end of it life for storing the robot position
Yes, it is charging 27VDC while power is on. When I installed the batteries they where at 12.6V a piece, then after being on for about 20 hours they were up to 13.1V a piece power off. So it looks like the charging is working fine. The RDW is in the robot base right? The PCB on the resolver cable side? How would one check it? It started out with just losing mastering on two axis, I can't remember which ones, 3 and 4 ring a bell. I then started checking out the battery charging situation because it was still shutting down as soon as the breaker was thrown instead of powering down correctly with a delay. It all seems that the charging is fine, it just isn't drawing powering from the batteries as it should. I checked the six fuses on the top left corner of the PM600 and all were good. I am looking for more fuses now in the schematics from the door.
Also, with new batteries, you want to leave the controller powered up for at least 12-24hrs to make certain the batteries get fully charged, before shutting down the controller.
Thanks Skyefire, the controller was on for about 20 hours total. About half way through is when I started trying to find an issue. Batteries at that point were at 13.1VDC a piece.
probably blew fuse when trying to start it with ancient batteries (dead short). this is first thing to sort out...if the powerdown is normal (batteries work), and you still loose mastering when shutting off power, change RDC.
Hello, I will try and find more fuses, all the ones I checked before posting were good. I never tried to start the controller with old batteries, I knew it had been sitting for a couple of years so before I put any power to it the batteries were swapped out. The only thing is, the power down is not normal, it just shuts off as soon as you throw the breaker instead of shutting Windows down properly.
Hello all, I have a KR200 with KRC1 control. The robot has been sitting a couple of years and I am trying to get it powered back up. I replaced the backup batteries but the controller shuts right off when you throw the breaker instead of staying on and shutting down properly. Also the robot loses mastering every restart. I check the battery connections and am getting 27VDC while the controller is running so it is trying to charge the batteries. Is there anywhere else i can look to check this out further?
Edit: Thought I should add, usually when I change batteries and make the last connection there is a small arc of electricity. When I put the new batteries in this one and hooked them back up there was no arc.
I would also be interested in this. I figured there was a way but didn't want to start cutting wiring.
i had same problem and connector pins were pushed out. i would check brake circuit for A1...
PM6-600 has fuses and they are all in the upper left corner (round black fuse holders with slots for flat blade screwdriver).
The connector pins in the robot connection cables or the robot itself? I am pretty sure the motor power and brake power runs through the same cable right? I checked them but I will recheck them, thanks.
I've noticed, Even with MFC cards working their way loose in transit. Seems like the KCP's are a little on the weak side as well.
Hello all, I have a weird issue I just came across. We have a 2002 KR200 robot that was working completely fine. It was shipped to another location 100 miles away and suddenly I am getting a "gear torque exceeded axis A1" error. Checked the connection cables and all looks good. Next step was to remove the motor from the base and try. Even with the motor laying on its side not installed it still kicks out this error. Reached into the base and I can easily rotate A1 by hand. Swapped the motor to A3 and the original A1 motor is fine. Thinking the brakes are staying on when it is connected at the A1 position. Is there any brake fuses on these similar to Nachi? Anyone else have any ideas or came across this before?
Hello all, just wanted to update this in the case that anyone comes across this issue. I traced the problem to four DIP switches on the FE207 card. X1, X3, X4, X5 were open and needed to be closed. Closed when 1x PM0 or PM6 and Open when 2x PM0 or PM6. This was a "parts" robot but it appears someone was playing with the switches not knowing much about it. I do not believe that this robot ever had an extra PM6 as there is no other evidence of one.
Hello all, I have an AR controlled SA160 that I am working on. Reloaded the constants but I believe they are corrupt. Had this issue before and loading the constants from a good running robot fixed the problem. Only problem is I do not have any SA160's around to copy the constants from. Can anyone out there help me out? Email is d.fature@yahoo.com
When you squeeze the deadman, does the power icon on the KCP turn green?You're using an X11 jumper plug to satisfy the hardware safeties, yes? I once had a similar problem years ago, but with a KRC2 -- there were two X11 wires for enabling Teach mode, but it turned out only one of them generated an error if it was mis-wired -- the other just prevented the motors from coming on. Never ran into it on a KRC1, but it might be worth checking for.
The GM KRC1s used two safety boards, if I recall correctly -- there wasn't enough space on the regular board for all the relays GM demanded. I would suggest tracing through the relays, using their readout LEDs on the board. That should narrow down which (if any) relay is the culprit.
Hey Skyfire, this will sound dumb but where is the power icon on the KCP? This being a GM bot the X11 is not the same, this has a CC1 bypass plug to satisfy the hardware safeties. I will take another look at the relays, I'll have to find my print out of what they all are again, been awhile sense I had to do that.
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GM used to have "servo disconnect" boxes.
These were running intermediate voltage through separte switch box outside KRC1.
Once KRC1 was moved box was disconnected and voltage never goes through (no errors)On PM6-600 you need to have a jumper (very short jumper for high voltage - thick cables, square plug)
It was on a left or right side of PM6-600
Check if you have it. If there is some wires tunning out if there -> you are a lucky one with servo disconnect option
You can jumper it out on terminal block where the wires are going to.
Hi there KR16, yes this has a servo disconnect but I have that jumped out. Even went back and ohm-ed the terminals to make sure I had good contacts on my jumpers.
Hello all, I recently purchased a KR150L150 robot from eBay. It has a KRC1 controller and came from a GM plant. I have dealt with GM robots in the past and trying to run them without issue. This one I am having a weird issue with though. When the robot came in someone had taken the RAM module from the motherboard. I grabbed one from a parts robot I have here and reloaded the KSS software as it was corrupt to an extent and would not do anything once the controller was booted and software loaded. Once I was done with that I checked the Auto-EXT I/O but did not need to change anything to 1025 as they already were. No errors, only the status message of drive contactor off. When I put it in jog mode and pull in a dead man wait a couple of second and hit an axis jog key it does not turn servo power on and only give me the message of :1376 Active Commands Inhibited. Of coarse the most common of status messages giving me no where to really start looking of problems. I had an issue before similar but that was chased down to a dirty contactor on the safety board. These contactors seem to be working perfectly fine. (I could see the dirty one on the other robot flickering when pulling in the dead man) Anyone ever run into this before and can point me in a direction?
Hello all, I just wanted to revisit this in case someone else has this issue in the future and finds this thread by searching.
The problem was with the MFC card. The card itself wasn't bad but had jiggled loose just a touch probably during shipping. That MFC card is very long and barely supported in the normal sized PCI slot of the motherboard. I went to pull it out and noticed it was a touch loose. Pushed it in and the issue is gone. Thanks again!
Hello all, I recently purchased a bulk of KRC1 controlled KR150 and KR200 robots. They are GM robots. I have been running through them getting them started back up and testing them and have ran into a couple that have this issue. When the controller is booting and starting Windows before a desktop is even displayed I get the error message below:
Your network adapter RTACC VxWorks Shared Memory Network (0000) is not working properly. You may need to set it up again.
Which if you go to the Windows Device Manager under network adapters there is a yellow flag next to it
After hitting ok on that error it tries to start Cross 3 to which this error pops up:
Uploader DLL version 2.00
Device driver interface DLL lprtw32.dll version 3.10
Driver LPVXWRT.vxd/sys version 3.42
Shared memory network version 4
RTW Setup (#0x2) No RTwin-Hardware found
It them errors our"Cross 3 has encountered a fatal error and will now shut down, leaving you at the Windows desktop.
What I have done so far:
Removed the Shared Memory Network adapter from Windows and then reinstalled it using SMS Setup from the Internat/Tools... folder.
Checked the settings for the adapter ( IP: 192.168.1.2 Subnet: 255.255.255.0 no DNS settings.)
Reinstalled KSS software
Took a hard drive from a working KRC1 KR200 (same robot) and installed it, no change. (This one really blows my mind as my understanding is the VXworks and Shared Memory Network have no hardware to my knowledge. How can changing the hard drive not have an effect on this issue when there is no hardware to the network? Using the Windows and settings from a good working robot directly.)
Any helps from the Kuka masters would be greatly appreciated as I have run into this on two robots now and suspect more.
I did not, I am sure they would be easy to make though. I had a few scrap Harding's around just wrong pin amount. I broke them down for the female connectors and just made jumper wires with them to jump on the pins for my testing purposes.
