Posts by alive15

    This is the list I have:

    Part A05b-2301-Cxxx (monochrome tp for t-j2, r-j3, r-j3iB, r-30iA)

    Part A05b-2490-Cxxx and A05b-2518-Cxxx (ipendant color for Rj3iB and R-30iA)

    Part A05b-2518-Cxxx (ipendant w/ usb for rj3iB and r-30iA, usb only available on r-30iA)

    A05b-2255-Cxxx (ipendant 4D w/ usb for R-30iB only)

    Hopefully someone finds this useful in the future. Thanks,

    Good afternoon all, hope everyone is doing well. Does anyone have a master list of teach pendants and cables that are interchangeable with one another? I had a teach pendant go out (A05b-2518-c202#EMH). I saw on of my company's other plants had a similar teach pendant part # (A05b-2518-c200#emh), and picture looked similar, so I said, let me try and see if it works. It didn't plug in to my teach pendant cable, haha. Does anyone have a master list of all interchangeable teach pendants and robot cables for R30iA and R30iB controllers?


    I'm confused, from your previous post, it sounds like you got it to trigger exactly how you needed it, but due to bad lighting, you had to revert back to old code? Why not just keep the same code, but find a solution to your lighting? Or maybe I didn't understand your post correctly.

    I don't have it bro, sorry. I tried googling what you needed, but couldn't find anything. Maybe someone else may have what you need?
    I saw the set you needed on ebay for $450 or so, kind of pricy.

    Sorry for the late reply JR, we had a bad ground cable going from the robot into the controller, so we replaced. We had replaced the two cables going from the robot into controller also, but that didn't fix the issue 100%. Changing out ground cable fixed the issue.

    He may be adding a breaker for 70E purposes? Even though the switch may be off, there's still 480 on the top side of the switch. Putting a breaker outside the robot controller would eliminate any voltage inside the controller if anyone wanted to work on it, perhaps?

    If you could determine FLA (full load amperage) of the robot controller from Fanuc, then take this information to one of your vendors for breakers, they will size the correct breaker for you. I'm unsure if there is a specific type of breaker, I would assume anything safety rated for robot application will do. Biggest thing will be to find breaker that can withstand 1.25x the FLA of the robot controller. I believe this is the correct # for USA standards, not sure of other countries.

    For example, lets say your controller pulls 40 amps on full load, so you will need breaker than can withstand 40 x 1.25 or 50 amps.

    The joint 3 is not actually turning, but the physical joint is moving forward as you are advancing joint 2. The same can be said if you turned joint 1, all other joints 2-6 will physically move location, but the joints themselves do not actually rotate, that's why they still remain at 0°.

    As far as J3 moving 30°, I have no idea .

    Good afternoon, does any one recommend any classes offered to learn how to program, install / set-up Fanuc robot controllers (such as R30iB or R30iC)? I'm sure Fanuc has some, but maybe a 3rd party offer good ones as well? Or perhaps even colleges that offer degrees in robot automation? Thanks,

    Assuming you are using R30iA or R30iB, please check connection between EAS1-EAS11 and EAS2-EAS21 (usually located on a board inside the panel on door itself). This should be a closed loop. You can check this by placing a jumper cable from EAS1-EAS11 and another jumper from EAS2-EAS21. If this fixes your safety gate issue, then you have issue with your safety lock / device. If this does not fix issue, you may have issue with the board or some other cable.

    Your issue may be similar to srvo-004 fence open fault, here is troubleshooting on this fault from manual:

    (4) SRVO-004 Fence open

    (Explanation) In the automatic operation mode, the safety fence contact connected to EAS1-EAS11

    or EAS2-EAS21 of TBOP4 is open.

    (Action 1) When a safety fence is connected, close the safety fence.

    (Action 2) Check the cables and switches connected between EAS1 and EAS11 and between

    EAS2 and EAS21 of the terminal block TBOP4 on the panel board.

    (Action 3) If the safety fence signal is not used, make a connection between EAS1 and EAS11

    and between EAS2 and EAS21 of the terminal block TBOP4 on the panel board.

    (Action 4) Check the mode switch. If trouble is found, replace the mode switch.

    (Action 5) Replace the panel board.

    IFM AL1422. Not really designed for panel mount, but they work. You may need more than one, but the I/O link ability may save you some IO. I've used these a bunch lately and they are super simple to setup over IFM's free lr device software.

    If you've never used an IO link sensor you'll be in for a treat.😁

    How did you make that work without a PLC? If you plug Ethernet cable from IFM device into robot, how do you know the configuration / racks assignments? I have used this IFM devices as well (works great), but mine is communicating with PLC via Ethernet; then PLC communicates to robot via Ethernet.

    I know for IMSTP, SFSPD, and Enable, all these 3 signals need to be "on" for robot to run. If robot does not see these signals on, it will not run. I believe they stand for immediate stop, safe speed, and enable. I have these tied to my plc and use logic to turn off. I have DIs mapped to the UIs.

    Start is starting the robot program. I'm unsure what UI17 is, but looking on a website, it stands for program number select.

    The UO's are just feedback from the robot to your plc or controls device. CMD enable and system ready mean robot should be good to go. ACK is probably acknowledging some request or button hit perhaps?

    This website has some good info on some of these UI/UO towards the bottom of the page:…t%20when%20this%20is%20ON.

    When is the last time the robots were greased? Maybe you lost some grease in that joint and needs replenishing.

    Does this fault occur in a certain position or is it random? If it's in a specific position, maybe it's going too fast, and you can slow the approach speed down also.

    Or as CSaunders mentioned, check the mechanical components. I found once we had low grease in a joint, and some metal shavings began appearing in the grease. We had to replace gear and re-grease robot to get the dirtiness out.