Posts by EPeters1

    I am getting LECO-067 Cap balance error, LECO-050 Cap A under voltage, LECO- 053 Cap B over voltage and LECO-055 Soft start failed, along with a loud popping sound when I tried to run the first weld with a robot. This robot has been unused for a few days but probably not more than a week, that amount of downtime has never been an issue before. Prior to that the robot ran flawlessly for at least a year so these errors are a big surprise.

    Is the problem located within the weld equipment? I also got an ARC-008 Power supply fault error.

    If it's in the controller what exactly am I looking for? I read the manual entries for these errors but they list an extensive list of possibilities and Im hoping to narrow it down. Going to start by checking 3 phase input and the PSU board.

    This is a 120iB arcmate robot and an RJ3iB controller.

    No other errors have come up, no. I have swapped out lots of parts in the past, might have done a main board, id need to go and see which part that is to know for sure. As far as A/C or a fan goes those are rare commodities in the shop and I wont get one until times are most desperate. I'll wait and observe for now and if we have another string of days of it freezing ill look into the main board swap idea.

    A few days ago the screen of the teach pendant on one of our robots started to freeze up. Turning it off and turning it back on worked for a few minutes but it froze up again. Next day worked out no problem for about 6 or 7 hours then happened again. Took out the fans and blew them out because they were absolutely filthy, thought it might be an overheating issue between that and us having record high temperatures last week. Froze up again the day after for awhile but now(after a weekend of it being off) it's working out no problem.

    Strange thing is the robot runs no problem, the screen can be totally frozen but I can run the program and it goes flawlessly. Swapped TP cable and swapped Teach Pendant with no change either. I'm not too pressed on the matter because it is working now but just wondering if anyone has any information on what's going on if/when it happens again.

    Trying to find a way to keep my error logs neater and ive looked around and the prevailing ideas are to later the er_nohis and also the error severity table. I have a few issues with these methods ofr my needs.

    1. er_nohis is good for weeding out WARN and NONE alarms but if I also have it block resets then the active history doesn't reset either and it fills up with every single error and that kind of defeats the purpose of an "active" error screen

    2. using the error severity table I can block specific errors beyond WARN which is helpful but again doing that they do not show up on the active screen at all. Predominantly I want to block the fence open error because when I am looking back through the logs for an issue that might have happened overnight I don't need to see every single time they opened the cell door. However, I still want the operator to be able to see right away on the pendant if their fence is open (some of our sensors can be picky so even if it looks closed to you it might need some wiggling to properly read closed) and yes there is a light on the sensor but it is not as conveniently in your face as the active error screen.

    Is there any way I can have errors appear on the active error screen but NOT logged into the error history?

    Edit: It's an RJ3iB controller

    If I am understanding your question correctly you should be able to simply use the same position number. So, for example if that position was P[8] then later one when you want to bring it to the same position just set the position number to 8 as well. In the future if you touch up one of those P[8]s it will ask if you want to give it a new number or edit all calls of that position. That way you can edit all instances of that position at once.

    It's simply to send a signal into the robot so it can determining what part is in front of it. We often have alternating components but sometimes operators will load the same one twice in a row and then the robot runs the wrong program. With the switch in place one part will trip it and one part won't so it can read that signal and run properly even if the operator loads wrong.

    I want to set up a limit switch that will send a signal to RI. I attempted to wire it into the CRF7 connector, connecting the switch to an RO on one side and RI on the other. My idea was to keep the RO permanently on sending a signal to the switch and then when the switch is tripped it would complete the circuit and send that signal back to RI. Has not worked. What am I doing wrong? I am very new to the RI/RO side of things so im not surprised it didnt work first try but I cant seem to find clear instructions how to do what I want to do.

    Its an Rj3iB controller and an Arcmate 120iB robot if that affects things at all. Thanks for any help you can give.

    Its the right number of pins at least, Is there a reason some entries are blank? Are they not connected to anything or not covered by that particular chart?

    Does anyone have the pin out information for the CRF7 cable that connects to the servo amp in an RJ3iB. It's the standing style controller, I believe its called B-style. The Manual I have is for the smaller square version and doesn't seem to have the information I need.

    well we have some donors i can pull from. Once I do that maybe things will make more sense.

    As far as the question of how many degrees it slips its noticably more than the others.

    Could be rebuilt motors, they were all bought used, and i dont know their history too well.

    When I release deadman switch the arm of the robot starts to sag, seemingly its only J2 that doesn't lock up right away. Looking into the manual the solutions are either to replace the motor or the relay.

    Now I am pretty sure its the motor because if it were the relay it would affect more joints I would think.

    Is that accurate? I don't want to go through changing the motor to find out it was the relay in the end, how do I know for sure which one is the problem?

    A tube of gasket maker did the trick. After opening it there was clearly a break in the gasket, small but there. Cleaned up all the edges, squeezed some of the stuff on and yeah all good. If anyone else attempts this note the curing time on the package, we did ours on Friday at end of shift so it could cure over the weekend.