Posts by keyboard7

Have never done this before, but what if you set up A cooling fan, or purge line where the robot welding torch rests at home between cycles. A fan could run all the time, the purge line could be turned on when the robot goes home to wait for cycle start signal, which would turn purge line off. We run our robots 16 hours A day doing heavy welding. We have never had the problem of melting consumables.
We use heavy duty tregaskis consumables. You just need to be aware that if your power source reaches its duty cycle, the welder will shut off.

On this forum, above where the posts are, is A spot for known error codes. This is A very helpful place to look.

When you have to do A bunch of touch ups, I like to put robot in jog frame.
This will allow you to just use X,Y,and Z buttons unless you have A rotating table that holds the fixture.
You said this was from torch replacement, so the table most likely will not need to be moved.
Good luck, this is good practice, you will get very fast at this. Just don't forget to hit touch up after every adjustment.

Check the cable on the TP, Sounds mechanical to me. A spare teach pendant, and cable are very handy to have for your system.
This can prevent much down time when one goes bad.

You may have to touch up all your weld starts and stops in this program. This may sound like A large task for someone new to this, but this is done very easily. You can try to shift your whole program, but surely you will have to touch up some points anyway.
You did not say what type of welding you are doing, but i assumed it was MIG. Most times the easy way is not the best way to fix A problem. You may have to touch up all your programs. Have seen posts about making tooling for locating the new torch as close as possible when changing. May not be A bad idea for future changes.

WE get these from Lincoln, Give your robot information, they will ship it to you.

We get these from Lincoln. Just give your robot information, they will ship to you.

Check the gas selenoid, may need replacing, normally on the back of the feeder.

You can get everything you need at Best Buy. Thats where we our compact flash adapters, and cards from.

You could also use A simple lever, Think of A flat bar with 3 holes, the first hole on bottom would be attached to what ever powers your actuator. The hole on the top would now be attached to the actuator.
By moving the hole in between up or down, you can adjust both the travel and the force applied.

Forgot to mention that the middle hole is now A pivot that needs to be fixed somehow.

the Lincoln power wave I400 may be A good choice for you. Check with you engineer to see if it is compatible.

In the light blue bar, bottom row before where the posts start there is A link to known fanuc faults. You may find your answer there.

The kit that you can order from Lincoln will have diagrams that show the exact position the arm should be in to grease the various axis. It also includes 2 small syringes for where there are no fittings.
It will also show you where each inlet, and out for each axis are located. As far as backup goes, we back up every time A new program is loaded, or created. Just tell them what arm you have to get the
right instructions, they will send pages from that arms manual.

We have MiG welding robots. We grease, and change all the batteries once A year. There are specific procedures to follow for greasing. The instructions say that some axis be greased every year, others every 2 years.
When I say greasing, you are really changing the grease. We change the grease on all axis every year, even if says every other year. If you order A grease kit from Lincoln for your specific robot. You will get
Detailed instructions included in the kit they will send you. There can be damaged caused to the seals if the instructions are not followed.

If you determine that it is a water issue they have sleeves that go over the arms often used by paint robots that might help. the arm I was trying to remember is the foundry pro.
Reccomended for severe environments. the arm is under internal pressure to keep water, or other fluids from breaching the seals.

fanuc makes an arm for wet or extreme environments, cant remember what its called, but the axis are all under pressure when running to prevent fluid getting in.
Don't know if this would help, buts its made for this type of applications.

We use Verbatim.

We were told by Fanuc that problems may occur if card is larger than 2GB, that's what we use all the time. We have never had an issue.

Our MiG welding robots use grease on every axis on the arms. Ours are mostly older, don't know what the new ones use. If the arms are not greased properly more damage than good can occur.
You have A leak now, you need to get this repaired as soon as possible. Seeing more problems posted lately about used robots. Have heard Fanuc will not support your used purchase without purchasing
A new license. This may add thousands of dollars to the cost of your used robot. There are in dependant repair companies you can use.

Fanuc does use grease. It starts to get thin after an extended time. Was this arm greased lately? If you do not follow the directions on how to grease these things seals get damaged causing leaks.
A seal may have just failed also. You need to get this repaired if indeed the seal is leaking, There are inlet, and outlets, along with grease fittings to preform greasing. You should never just pump grease into A fitting,
Without opening the out let, to prevent seal damage.