Posts by keyboard7

    Check the selonoid wires on the back of the feeder. or could be a bad selonoid. This turns on the gas flow on and off.

    They sometimes wont work when the become covered in metal dust also.

    For future projects here is what we do sometimes. Set up the cell with 2 fixtures weld the top of your part in the first one from the teach pendant.

    Take that part, flip it over and load it into the second fixture, load another part into the first fixture. Now every cycle will weld the top of one part, and

    then finish the bottom of the second part. you get a completed part every cycle. Just write your program to weld the top of the part on one fixture then weld the bottom of the part on the second fixture. you would not have to have any positioners or air cylinder to flip the fixture.

    Do you have an operator panel for this robot? If you do you can simply put a pause instruction in your program when the fixture needs to be flipped.

    It will wait for you to hit the start button after you flip it over and run the rest of your program. You would probably need an intergrater to get you set up with another axis. quite a bit involved, but you will find it very helpful for this robot for future projects.

    I would suggest getting the best batteries that you can. Get the exact replacement for the 3 volt battery in your controller.

    Buy an extra, we had one go dead in a week that was brand new but a cheaper brand the crib guy found.

    If your batteries go dead, and you have a power outage you could be in for many days of trying to put everything back how it was.

    You could even lose every program you have if it is not backed up. Check the voltage on the 3 volt battery in the controller before you install it.

    We have got dead ones in the brand new box.

    What type of operation are you attempting? You would be much better off with adding another axis for rotating.

    That way you could rotate by teaching points to the new axis. Your robot would have much more capability.

    Additional axis are very handy to have and are much more suited to turning fixturing over.

    We set ours up with pins on a frame. That way we can switch fixtures out very quickly.

    just write in the weld speed after the arc start instruction. You need to select a schedule when you put in an arc start instruction.


    You can write the weld speed into the program when you create it, or change them when ever you want. cursor over to the weld speed.

    There will be choices that come up on pendant. put in which ever travel speed you want, we use inches per minute.

    Talk to your welding supply contact, See which type of wire they reccomend, They use flux core and pulse for stainless exhaust systems.

    Sheet metal especially stainless like to move when heat of welding gets applied. Fixturing, and planning your welding pattern will be very important.

    You need to make sure the materials are fixtured in place very rigidly when you start welding because they will try to move.

    southeastern Michigan, Most people working from or staying home from the traffic I see.

    We are in the office still, staying away from everyone, no visitors allowed. Got only one bot running right now, great program, no glitches.

    The big 3 are shutting down soon, or already have. We just go about are business, trying to stay positive.

    Stores are getting more stocked compared to A few days ago. plenty of TP and food.

    Hope everyone stays safe during this mess. My guess that some man made bug was released by some tool in China.

    Thats where the last few big ones came from also, SARS swine flu.

    Got another new battery from crib this morning and checked the voltage which was 3 volts.

    Swapped out battery I put in last week, cleared alarms all good at power up, no alarms.

    Checked voltage on new one from last week and found .85 volts.

    This is the first time in 17 years this has happened. I took the the bad one out of the sealed box myself, so I know it wasn't used, but don't know how old it was. I will from now on check voltage, and date the box on the batteries when we receive them. It was the battery that is in the controller.

    I will check them again before I replace them in the controller also because we are prone to short power outages in our building. We normally order these replacement batteries in pairs for each robot.

    That was just what I was wondering, I get them from the tool crib, I normally check the voltage before I put it in but was trying to due too many things at once this time. I am going to get A new one again and check voltage before I swap out the one I changed last week.

    At power up this morning, A SYST-035 low or no battery power in PSU alarm came up on RJ-3 controller.

    Just changed all the batteries last week in robot base, robot controller and for positioners.

    Is this A different battery that needs replacing? Would this be something I could do?

    Like I said in my reply, not 100% sure, We use older robots.

    But if it is A delay or pause, it just means that the arm will pause for that much time after arc start

    before it starts weld travel speed. To see the range, put some time in there until it won't let you add

    the value anymore. I have only used it up to .5 seconds of pause myself.

    Not 100% sure but older models that I work on had A delay time to allow A puddle to form at arc start before the robot would reach travel speed.

    But it was not in the weld schedule screen, it was in the detail screen when you highlighted A schedule.

    I don't know how your positioner is set up but using inches per minute may not be the way to go.

    When you spin something in A circle the closer to the center you are, the faster it spins.

    Both near the center and farthest edge of A disk both travel 360 degrees when rotated one complete

    cycle. The farthest away travels much farther than the center. Try changing point to J 100 % fine for the positioner. Then adjust your travel with the % value. Surely some trial and error will occur, don't be afraid to make drastic changes in the % value when you start, will get the results you need faster.

    Checking drift by looking at the witness marks sound like A dumb idea to me.

    We have found most of the time that the fixturing is moving around when things seem off.

    The only way to be sure is to have the arm and tooling shot by A laser scanner, recorded then checked again when things seem off. That would tell you what is moving and how far.

    Unless your arm and tooling are both mounted to pileings buried in the ground below you floor,

    there is A chance that the floor can move do to thermal expansion and contraction.

    Ours are mounted to the cement floor, we see movement in both when the season changes from hot or cold weather.

Advertising from our partners