Posts by mortoch

MOTN–019 WARN In singularity
Cause: Position near by singularity.
Remedy: Reteach the position that is near a singularity point.

Need to talk to your programmer.
This is from my RJ@ manual but I think they are the same.

We, as a rule keep a couple of large desiccant packs lying on the floor of the controller cabinet at all times. Our robots run all year in a very humid area of China and I have never experienced that alarm.
You may also want to closely check all your cables for cracks in insulation etc.
Good Luck

Have you checked all your I/O fuses?
Could really use a little more info.
When you say ran a part do you mean you changed part configuration or merely ran one part and the problem started with the next part in sequence?

I do both just because of hard lessons where the robot went to the cut off without a part and we had to order a new gripper.

I would advise not ordering just one fuse. It will save you a lot of hassle if you have several of each size and configuration needed for you controller.

We use lasers that shoot a beam that is aimed so that it is purposefully broken by a successfully picked up part. I pick the part and move to the beam and pause. If the beam is broken the robot moves on, if it is not it returns home and issues an alarm via the plc.
There are checks in place to verify that the beam is not broken when it shouldn't be to watch for misalignment of the laser.
I also site the part that is to be picked to make sure we are not starting a dry cycle because of no part in the pick up position.

If the software is missing it is a big problem because if you could find the software is will likely be expensive. That statement alone would turn me off unless I had the software on hand.

I was recommended The Graco 15-to-1 Fireball greasing system by a Fanuc chat tech just the other day.

I also wound up getting an old xp with a 9 pin D port and used the cable as described. Worked like a charm.
I tried all the other options before but that route was the best option.

Here is the pin out for the Kfloppy cable, at least for an RJ-2 controller.
ROBOT PC
25 pin male connector 9 pin female connector

2 <--------------------------------------< 2

3 <--------------------------------------< 3

7 <--------------------------------------< 5

6 >--| |--< 1
| |
8 >--| |--< 4
| |
20 >--| |--< 6

4 >--| |--< 7
| |
5 >--| |--< 8

https://www.robot-forum.com/ro…l-axes/msg71405/#msg71405
This is the post I mentioned.

Search this error on here. There is a post that talks about a tech finding pins shorted in his brake harness.

You may want to be a little more specific in your information.
Robot model, controller model, what records you are having a problem with.
There are some real smart people on here but as of yet I have found no mind readers.

Here is one from Racermike123 that is simple and to the point.

Quote from Racermike123

The robot needs to be mastered and then calibrated before you can run the vision master recovery.
You need to manually jog the robot to line up all of the "witness marks".
Then you press menu, 0, 6, press F1 (type) and select Master/cal.
select zero position master and then select calibrate.
You should then be able to run the program.

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Go to the search tab on the top of the page and type MOTN-049 in to the search filter. There are several very good answers there that should set you right.

Will these work in the RJ2?
We have a sh*t load of these dinosaurs they bought from a defunct GM plant for dirt.

Kfloppy with a custom cable to a 9 pin D port on an old XP laptop is what I use for back up on our RJ2's

Do you have your polarity set correctly? I have had issues before where the wiring was backwards or the polarity had been changed.

Check "the driver chips, they protect the CPU from damage if the device that is being turned on by the output is shorted.
They are mounted to the CPU and you can tell by looking at them that they are burned.
The driver-chips are two Toshiba TD62107 drivers.
They are located right behind the blue CRM10 and CRS1 connectors, and they sit in sockets, so they are very easy replaceable."

Quote from RacerMike on a similar problem I had. It fixed my issue.
If you are turning on an output through your EE plug check that the wiring in not shorting, mine was a broken wire.

Have you tightened you cable shield clamp where it enters the cabinet. As I said it cured mine and it has not returned in almost a year.