Posts by mortoch

    Below is the instructions and cable pin out I have always used on our Rj2. Worked for me.

    Kfloppy directions TO SEE USB PORT GO TO TOP TASK BAR>>>DEVICES>>>USB>>>SELECT PORT AND DOUBLE CLICK. Turn Off Screen Saver And Hard Drive Shut Down To save program: Open Kfloppy >>> Set comm portt>>> In KFloppy Folder on Desk Top: Create a File, Example: “837_5_18” this is the robot number and the month and year of back up. Longer names will not work. Under File Click Change Directory >>> change directory to the file you just created >>> Under File Click EMULATE, At the top of the Emulate pop up you should see the file name you have just created. If not abort and go back to Change Directory and check your typing etc. Disable your screen saver and Power downs on your laptop. >>> On TP: Press Menu >>> Select File >>> Utilities >>> Set Device >>> Enter >>> Floppy >>> Enter >>> Press Back up >>> Select All of the above >>> Enter >>> Yes .>>> If cable is connected the Save starts automatically. >>> Will read, “Accessing device. PREV to exit” >>> Then “Backing up xxxxxx” If all is well. If you receive a communications error check comm cable, if all is well try the following: On TP: Shut down controller panel >>> Perform a cold start by holding “PREV” and “NEXT” buttons on the TP while restoring power until the display reads options including “Cold Start” enter the number for “Cold Start” then enter. Wait for cold start to complete then press Menu >>> Setup >>> Port Int, >>> Choice >>> PS100/200 >>> Enter. Perform a second “Cold Start”. After cold start completes reattempt to perform back up again. To restore previously saved program. Make sure KFloppy is booted up >>> Turn on robot main power while holding “prev” & “Next” >>> press Next twice >>> press Install >>> press Enter >>> press Next >>> press Restore >>> press Enter. During Kfloppy upload teach pendant said “System not set up for serial floppy.” Performed “Cold Start” >>> Menu >>> Port Initialization >>> Changed port to PS-100 PS-200 option >>> FCTN >>> Cold Start >>> All Good KFloppy cable for R-J2 Controller ROBOT PC25 pin male connector 9 pin female connector 2 <--------------------------------------< 2 3 <--------------------------------------< 3 7 <--------------------------------------< 5 6 >--| |--< 1 | | 8 >--| |--< 4 | | 20 >--| |--< 6 4 >--| |--< 7 | | 5 >--| |--< 8

    Just to clarify.

    When you grease there are two plugs to remove.

    Or a grease zert and a plug. If there are two plugs one will need to be replaced with a zert.

    The plug will usually be opposite of the zert, and preferably pointing down, if not rotate robot so it does point down and then place a catch basin of some type under it.

    Then begin pumping the grease into the zert SLOWLY. If you are using a pneumatic gun set at very low pressure. To high of pressure will destroy the seals in the joints.

    As stated before pump until grease runs out clean and then remove a small amount to avoid over pressure caused by movement and heat up.

    "They did not have BG Logic until Rj3iA or iB. What you may be seeing is possibly a condition monitor or a connect IO."

    This was the answer I received for a similar question in this forum a couple of years ago.

    I believe this is the method I used to fix that and other issues related to the GM's. Please use at your discretion as I cannot claim to be an expert and if any of the real experts here see an issue please speak up. Hope it helps.



    TO CLEAR I/O

    The IO declaration is in F2 "config" portion of the I/O screen. Change the columns to all be 0 to disable everything!


    An alternative and usually faster way would be to clear assignments. To do that, do the following (This may not be an option, as all versions of software do not have this)


    Go into the I/O screen

    press F1 "Type"

    choose "link device"

    press F5 "CLR_assgn"


    recycle power and everything should be cleared!

    All of the robots I cut my teeth on were old GM robots and they all had the brake release option.

    That being said there was a way to by pass that if I remember correctly. I will see if I can find the procedure and let you know.

    They are a pain in the butt to work with.

    Here is a clip from a post I was on 4-5 years ago. After tightening the mentioned shield clamps it never happened again.


    "DTERR alarms can be caused by poor connection of the shield on the RP1 cable to ground at the controller."

    "Yes the shield clamps were all loose in the cabinet. Tightened them and problem cleared. You people are life savers. I thank you."

    Not knowing full story behind this need for mastering I would suggest re-making the position and seeing if it holds.

    If a robot loses it's master for some reason and the master is not saved correctly, as in recording the actual positions of each joint then remastering will usually require touch ups to positions.