Posts by Wall-E

    Struggling with this too :


    My electrician told me that since the robot has a plug, and is not hard-wired to the mains, the french regulation forces him to put a 30mA RCD.

    My KRC4 KR210 R3100 trips it randomly when I switch the cabinet on or when I activate the motors.

    This is driving me nuts...

    Great ! I'm looking around for hardware and found this :

    https://www.amazon.fr/Capteur-…id=1636449005&sr=8-2&th=1


    It looks like there is two versions :

    -"Normally open"

    -"Normally closed"

    I guess that it will just either continuously be at "0" state or at "1" state until it is touched by the tool, and then it switches.


    But what's the advantage of one over the other ?

    Also, I see it has some kind of blower to clean the tool. I suppose it can be activated through the robot controller with an output and a solenoid valve...

    I'd like to set up an automatic tool height adjustment system, as in this video :

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    That would be on a KRC4 system ; Robot : KR210 r3100.

    I plan to do mostly milling and my spindle has an automatic tool changer too, so even though my tools will be preset, I'd like to have a systematic re-adjustment performed at each tool change.


    Advice, someone ?

    Hi Panic,


    Thanks for your help.
    I must admit I have never put my fingers in servo parameters.
    Could you point to where these files are ?


    The hard drive looks healthy ; I detected no strange behavior in Windows.


    I noticed that the LEDs on the drive for motor 6 are indeed black, while it's chistmas for the others : https://photos.app.goo.gl/DcXFEvVR53ZjmEMB6
    I made a cold start and I saw that they don't blink at all.


    I swapped the intebus cable with another one, and it changes nothing, so the cable is good.
    Could be the Kuka Servo Drive cables, but it seems all nice and snug.


    Maybe it's the KSD1-08 servo drive module.
    Funny, I see on Ebay that the prices for these ddrive modules range from 175 $ to 2500 $, and the KSD1-08 module is generally more expensive than the -16 , -36 and larger ones...

    After further testing with an Ohm-meter, I saw that the current still flows through the cable ; only the plastic is a bit damaged, and I could fix this easily.
    But then I realized that one of the pins of the connector on the motherboard was bent so that it didn't connect to the corresponding cable.
    Things are back to normal now !


    I made a video out of the little tutorial, and added extra warnings in the description : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpKQYHMVEhA&feature=youtu.be


    But as Panic mentioned : it's better to think twice when undertaking this kind of task for the first time !

    I might be able to get one from Eurobots from whom I pruchased it, I guess they have heaps of hardware for canibalistic purposes.


    I also found this interesting video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyRVA7NDo9o


    I'll be more prudent next time, but there is not so much clear and visual tutorials out there for robot hardware repair, unfortunately.
    At least, if this whole adventure can help out poor souls like me in the future, it will be a positive thing.

    I think that I found what's going on with the pendant and dead man switches.
    I noticed that the small dead man switch which is on a sort of cylindrical bump had a strange behavior : when pressed, it did nothing, and then if you press harder it switches on the display of the "X, Y, Z, etc... or A&, A1, A2, etc..." options.
    Normally, that second level should also be an open circuit, as with the other dead man switches.
    So I checked the ribon cable, and found that it was squished on the edge, certainly it was sandwiched on the nearby screw socket that secures the case closed.


    EXACTLY what Spirit 532 warned me about.


    Now here come the big question : what is the reference of this ribbon cable so that I can purchase one, (either 0.8$ on Ebay, or 245 $ from KUKA) :icon_smile:


    You should never get an "Active commands inhibited" message without another message that inidicates why.


    Err... well, this is the twilight zone then.
    And how about the cold starts ? In what circumstance would the system not do a normal restart after a "hibernate" ?

    Well, for my defense, I did ask for some advice on June 10th, and only got an answer after bumping the topic on July 31st.
    I have looked very hard for ANY picture or description of the inside of a KRC2 KPC and found absolutely nothing.
    This is why I took the time to document what I did, hoping that it could help others.


    I don't have the money to get an official KUKA training, so I do what I can with friends and forums...


    Also, I really don't see what the pendant has to do with the forced cold starts.
    I'd love to try another KCP, but it's like 1000 carat diamonds, I don't have many lying around.


    Just so that you don't think I'm a raving madman at the helm of a massive industrial robot, Wall-E is a Little Kr6 which runs about an hour a week, therefore I didn't feel the urge to sell a kidney for some KUKA folk to change the oil.
    The batteries are shipping as I write this.

    The screen is SLIGHTLY brighter indeed.
    But the robot is COMPLETELY useless...


    I have been getting warnings of low battery voltage for some time.
    Could that be the reason why the robot does cold starts instead of just getting out of hibernation ?
    Like there is just enough juice to save the mastering data, but not enough to finish the hibernation procedure.


    And damn ! How can the drives stop working in manual mode after the first triggering ?
    This makes absolutely no sense !!!


    Time to re-install ?

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