Posts by Skooter

    See note in post #4. The resolver is precisely set to a specific position on the motor to give it a commutation of 1.5708 rad. Any good servo motor repair shop familiar with ABB motors will have the equipment and knowledge to set the resolver to the correct position.

    I don't have the IRB1200 in front of me to understand how the SMB power cable could have been plugged into the motor resolver connector. Pins 3 & 7 in the power cable are the 24VDC and pins 3 & 7 at the motor resolver connection should not have continuity. The resolver should have resistance between pins 1 & 6, 2 & 7, 3 & 8. Resistance should measure the same between 1 & 6 and between 2 & 7.

    Regarding rev counters, jog all axes to their zero position and any that don't match - update those counters.

    Closely double-check the pins in the resolver connector for axis 2 motor. Perhaps a pin is pushed in or bent.

    After axis 2 motor is changed or removed, you will need to do a Fine Calibration on axis 2.

    For me:

    SMB = Serial Measurement Board is the PCB.

    SMU = Serial Measurement Unit is the entire unit - metal mounting frame and PCB.

    I'm a proponent of making sure the SMU frame is grounded and the cable shielding grounded. Fixes noise that causes other, sometimes intermittent issues.

    Have you tried another SMU? Do you have another ABB motor to try just the resolver - resolver connections are standard across many ABB motors.

    NOTE! Do not remove or loosen the resolver.

    Make sure there is no floppy in the disk drive when you power up.

    The pendant is communicating as it displays the beginning screen showing the RDG/SBV EPROMs found on the Robot Computer board.

    From there it will run through a series of system diagnostics tests where it displays each test as it progresses - please see troubleshooting tools section in the Product Manual.

    Some tests take awhile so be patient. After it successfully completes diagnostics, it will ask for disk 1 of the software to be inserted into the disk drive.

    Most common failure for S4 diagnostic tests is T0018: IOC Battery-test. This happens when one or both of the controller batteries is too low.

    Since this has SBV/SDG EPROM set, download this IRB6400 M96 Product Manual found >here< and use the sections pertaining to the controller & software. It better reflects what you will see than the info found in the early edition IRB2400 M94A Product Manual.

    Which diagnostic screen/code is it stuck on? Codes start with a 'T'.

    Did you download the manuals found >here< and >here<?

    After removing the batteries, it will now need the operating system installed.

    The operating system will have 5+ disks, not sure what you have on those floppies but hope there is a backup on one of them. The backup will not restore the operating system, but it can give clues about what else is needed and it will save lot's of work configuring the system after an operating system is loaded.

    The joystick needs to be in its null (center) position when self testing at power up. Double check the rubber seal around the joystick stem and make sure it is not deformed or push down too far.

    Any 3HNE00313-1 teach pendant will work right off the shelf, these were used from S4C M97 thru S4C+ M2000A.

    For the 00313-1 pendants, joystick failure is the most common failure excluding physical damage to pendant/cable/connector.

    It's hard to find floppy drives that allow the changes needed - D1>D0, DC>RY, SE>P2.

    I suggest the replacement offered by Global Robot Parts (SWEROB) in Sweden.

    Disk Drive Replacement (DDR) - A product to solve floppy disk problems
    The DDR replaces all old floppy disk units in ABB robot systems (S2, S3, S4, S4C and S4C+ with DSQC540 computer)

    It's mature & proven, they designed these years ago when floppies were being replaced by other media.

    Bought a lot other quality ABB stuff from them, mostly before eBay became popular.

    ABB floppy format before IBM PC compatible - has different track/sector setup.

    If 3.5", use an unformatted 720MB disk and format it in the controller - always format in the controller.

    If it is already PC formatted, I would format it at least twice as bulk formatting usually penetrates the magnetic media to a greater depth.

    I would recommend buying & using a cleaning floppy disk first - there's plenty still found on eBay.

    If you don't have a key, you can jumper the switch with alligator jumper wire temporary.

    Robot won't allow Automatic unless pendant is in the cradle.

    Just to verify:

    when you try to jog, the key is in the Manual (teach) position?

    K1 & K2 engage with the deadman?

    all appropriate Panel Unit X1 thru X4 jumpers are installed?

    X1: 3-4-5, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12

    X2: 3-4-5, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12

    X3: 3-4, 7-8-9, 10-11-12

    X4: 3-4, 7-8-9, 10-11-12

    The flashing positions let you know the those numbers may be invalid. Once the offending rev counter(s) are updated, they go back to normal.

    With ohmmeter, verify K3 coil is wired: A2 (-) should be 0 ohms to the controller chassis. A1 (+) should measure continuity to the Panel Board connector X8-10 - wire # is 294.

    With voltmeter it is tricky to do by yourself. If you don't have clip leads, best to have someone else to try to jog robot while you measure. With the deadman enabled and K1 & K2 engaged, monitor K3-A1 when the joystick is moved. It should have 24V with reference to the controller chassis (0V).

    Also, do not move the robot if K3 does not engage - besides releasing the brakes, K3 also bypasses the two 10 ohm in-rush resistors allowing full power to the DC-Link (rectifier). Moving the robot too much when K3 is not engaged tends to burn up those 2 resistors.

    One last question in this topic: I need to replace the battery inside the controller(18NiCd batteries), because after 3 days since I last turned it on, I get the error like "Battery discharged, lost rev. counter data." Should it be replaced when controller is power on.

    Should it fit the S4C+ controller?

    https://www.batterien-und-akku…h-passend-fuer-21-6-v-abb ?

    You can replace with the power on if you are very careful.

    If you want to do it with power off, make sure to do manual shutdown found in the Service menu under the 'File' dropdown. After selecting 'Shutdown', wait for the controller to finish imaging and the LEDs on the CPU go out (about 8 - 18 seconds) before turning off the disconnect. This will ensure you have a known good image when you power the controller back on.

    The battery pack in the link looks correct but I've always used the 3HAC5105-1 pack made with NiCads, not NiMH. Not sure how the charging would be affected.
    The NiCad packs require a 24hr 'ON' period to be assumed fully charged.

    When the deadman is pulled, K1 & K2 will engage but K3 does not until you move the joystick.

    M2000 Circuit Diagrams page 404 shows the 24V Brake path through the contactors.

    At power on, there should be 24V Brake at: K1-14, K3-21, K3-22, (K3-53)

    After you reset rev counters, you need to run the 'CALIB' routine you wrote to according to video. The axis position value for all 6 axes should now be 0.0. If they are not at 0.0, then the p10 position somehow did not have all axes set to be at 0.0. Follow the video again and make sure to edit p10 for all 6 axes. If you are not sure, make a backup and post a zipped copy of the backup. Someone here can help find the issue.

    Funny thing is when I tested the old PSU in the lab, all voltages were OK 🤯

    Have to load the outputs to properly test.

    Next problem, there has been an undocumented mod to the braking circuit. Now there is installed an interface relay on the brake release contactor, but there is missing a 24V to the circuit. Where is the best way to get this, the customer power at XT31 or the brake power?

    Should already be wired, the External Brake Release 24V needs contactor K3 ON. Need more info on the 'interface relay' wiring.

    Hello Lemster, in this case, can be done a fine calibration in order to bring all axes in 0° . It will change the offset values of course. what does it change if the offsets are not the same as those written in the cabinet door

    Original factory calibration numbers are the result of a mechanical/electrical setup far more precise than lining up notches. That precision gives better TCP, Linear & Circle moves. As Lemster68 says, any mechanical changes done on an axis will invalidate the factory cal offset number.

    M2000 manuals found >here<. It's an old post but just added circuit diagrams.

    Much better off fixing the power supply. It has a serial bus that reports status to the computer.

    The circuit diagram on pg 204 only shows a block diagram but you can see the 5 separate 24V supplies.

    Approx. 80% of repairs on these is replacing the old electrolytic capacitors and fan.