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KSS15014 smartPAD connection error

  • Wall-E
  • April 23, 2024 at 8:43 AM
  • Thread is Unresolved
  • Wall-E
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    • April 23, 2024 at 8:43 AM
    • #1

    Hi ! There's another thread with this title on the newsgroup, but it turns out the problem wasn't related to the smartPAD, so I thought I'd create a new one.

    In fact, I'm SURE my problem is a real connection error, and I can even narrow down the issue at the stem of the cable, where it is connected to the smartPAD : if I bend it just a little bit, I get the error.

    My question is : what are the precautions and steps to open-up the smartPAD ?

    I remember going through hell when changing the internal screen LEDs of my KRC2 pendant, and I even made a tutorial at that time to help the poor souls who would need to do the same.

    Any advice / warning before I open this baby up ?

    If I screw this up and need to buy another pendant, I might as well declare bankrupcy right away, so...

    KR 210 R3100 ultra

    Controller generation : KRC4

    Year 09/2011

    Kuka System Software KSS V8.3.37

  • Wall-E
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    • May 8, 2024 at 11:35 PM
    • #2

    Help !

  • Hes
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    • May 9, 2024 at 9:57 AM
    • #3

    Atleast on the smartpad-2 the procedure is very simple. There is a small cover on the back where the cable enters and thats it. If i remember correctly there is only a strain relief and one connector.

    I assume you have a smartpad-1 as you stated 2011 as the manufacturing year. i do not know how it is connected on this model. If you have a cover where the cable enters on the backside of the pendant open it up and check.

  • panic mode
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    • May 9, 2024 at 2:26 PM
    • #4

    have not taken smartPads apart but imagine that precautions are the same as for any other electronics. follow ESD guidelines, do not force, damage or scratch things, determine how used connectors are to be used and watch youtube videos until sure you understand this fully. take pictures and ask for help if needed - before you break anything.

    then swap the damaged part. if you are reusing same cable (shortening it to remove the damage spot) make sure you use same connector type, correct assembly method and pinout.

    then reassemble in reverse order of taking it apart. this is where pictures or video of disassembly can come in handy, specially if you did not do this before.

    1) read pinned topic: READ FIRST...

    2) if you have an issue with robot, post question in the correct forum section... do NOT contact me directly

    3) read 1 and 2

  • Wall-E
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    • May 23, 2024 at 10:34 AM
    • #5
    Quote from panic mode

    watch youtube videos until sure you understand this fully

    Well that's the problem : I have found absolutely nothing.

    Was hoping to find some photos here from someone who went through this.

  • binco
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    • May 23, 2024 at 12:08 PM
    • #6

    it looks like after unscrewing the body, there will be some plug/socket.

    1. make sure there is no charge left inside the smartpad's electrical components.

    2. make sure you won't lose anything small if it falls to the floor

    3. if you're doing this you can first try blowing some really hot air on the place where it's bent and testing if it resolves the issue.

    4. maybe you would feel more secure if you had to cut the damaged cable piece out and then connecting the wires without opening up the smartpad.

    hope i helped but i had fun typing this, thanks!

    here's a pic I've found: https://icdn.tradew.com/file/201606/1569362/jpg/7947293.jpg

    7947293.jpg

  • panic mode
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    • May 23, 2024 at 2:18 PM
    • #7
    Quote from Wall-E

    Well that's the problem : I have found absolutely nothing.


    i think the problem is how you search. you may be expecting to see details for exactly your situation instead of looking ... more broadly.

    in simplest form the task involves using screwdriver and connectors. info on those can be found easily, not necessarily showing how to use them on a smartPad.

    connectors can be different type so goal is to identify type and see how they are used before doing something that may cause damage. because latches and levers can be different style and operated differently. for example just lookup "FFC connector types" for FFC/FPC connectors. same goes for other forms (mini-Fit etc.).

    if you are cutting cable to remove damaged part, then you will also need to attach new connector of same type and there are videos explaining that. again - not necessarily on a smartPad.

    same goes for replacing screen or membrane buttons. you may not find info how to do it on smartPad but there are tons of repair videos on doing same work on other products. everything you see there will apply to repairs you may be conducting.

    1) read pinned topic: READ FIRST...

    2) if you have an issue with robot, post question in the correct forum section... do NOT contact me directly

    3) read 1 and 2

  • Wall-E
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    • May 23, 2024 at 3:23 PM
    • #8
    Quote from binco

    3. if you're doing this you can first try blowing some really hot air on the place where it's bent and testing if it resolves the issue.

    Hi Binco,

    My cable isn't bent, but something fishy is going on at the terminal of the cable, inside the SmartPad.

    Quote from panic mode

    just lookup "FFC connector types"

    Is it this type of connector ?

    Thanks for your input guys.

  • panic mode
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    • May 23, 2024 at 3:34 PM
    • #9

    i do not know exact type since i had not looked at smartPad insides but connectors that KUKA normally uses on low voltage circuits are common types made by Molex etc.

    inside teach pendant there are likely high density connectors (FFC/FPC) for LCD and membrane keys. but right now you are likely not interested at this.

    for connecting wires/cables to PCB that would usually be microFit, nanoFit, etc. that is what the image in post #6 also suggests though connector cannot be identified correctly from that picture.

    so i suggest to take some time to gently open the smartPad (lay the screen on something soft like folded towel) and see what is inside, take good pictures.

    this is what typical miniFit Jr looks like. to release latch squeeze top of the retention clip as shown by arrow:

    1) read pinned topic: READ FIRST...

    2) if you have an issue with robot, post question in the correct forum section... do NOT contact me directly

    3) read 1 and 2

  • Wall-E
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    • May 23, 2024 at 4:56 PM
    • #10

    Done...

    The issue is still here after cleaning the electrical contacts with a special fluid.

    There's probably a short inside the cable bundle somewhere.

    I guess I'm good to pay the ransom and get a new one.

    Here's a little "How to" I did in case someone needs to open up this thing.

  • Wall-E
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    • May 23, 2024 at 5:06 PM
    • #11

    Holy crap, this thing is worth over 400 € !!!

    I thing I'm going to learn how to crimp cable terminals...

    Moreover, my cable is in two parts : one short, one long.

    Not sure why...

  • panic mode
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    • May 23, 2024 at 5:08 PM
    • #12

    very good...

    and if you do not mind, please take few high resolution images of the board so one can check other details. the collage is great step by step instruction set but i would not mind to see board details and used parts.

    1) read pinned topic: READ FIRST...

    2) if you have an issue with robot, post question in the correct forum section... do NOT contact me directly

    3) read 1 and 2

  • panic mode
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    • May 23, 2024 at 5:12 PM
    • #13

    well, problems tend to be at places where cable flexes the most. and this is usually near smartPad, which is why there is a pigtail support for the cable. one could try bending cable to identify exact problem location and cut it out. if this is indeed close to smartPad box, cable would be slightly shorter as one can relatively easy rebuild the connector for few bucks if you already have a crimper.

    1) read pinned topic: READ FIRST...

    2) if you have an issue with robot, post question in the correct forum section... do NOT contact me directly

    3) read 1 and 2

  • Wall-E
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    • May 23, 2024 at 5:26 PM
    • #14
    Quote from panic mode

    and if you do not mind, please take few high resolution images of the board so one can check other details

    When I attempt to re-do the terminal, I'll take more shots.

    Then I'll have to unplug the 3D mouse and screen, which makes me kind of scared, but... OK, I'll do it.

  • panic mode
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    • May 23, 2024 at 5:34 PM
    • #15

    do not do anything that makes you uncomfortable. at least not because i asked you something. i prefer to be blamelsess :winking_face:

    1) read pinned topic: READ FIRST...

    2) if you have an issue with robot, post question in the correct forum section... do NOT contact me directly

    3) read 1 and 2

  • panic mode
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    • May 23, 2024 at 5:39 PM
    • #16

    having cable in two parts is actually nice. it some cases it could be even better if in 3 pars (1m +5m+5m). in case of failure, one can test by replacing or removing one part, or keep one as spare.

    1) read pinned topic: READ FIRST...

    2) if you have an issue with robot, post question in the correct forum section... do NOT contact me directly

    3) read 1 and 2

  • Wall-E
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    • June 28, 2024 at 5:07 PM
    • #17

    Here are a few pictures of the inside.

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Thread Tag Cloud

  • abb
  • Backup
  • calibration
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  • CRX
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  • dx100
  • dx200
  • error
  • Ethernet
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  • external axis
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