So, had my first Yumi experience today -- a local school had one and the batteries had failed, so I took a whack at it. I'm going to leave my notes here in case anyone finds them useful.
First thing to know: the Yumi is officially listed at the IRB 14000, so the Product Manual is located under that name in the ABB online library: https://library.abb.com/r?cid=9AAC1843…roduct%20manual
Opening up the robot to get to the batteries takes a T10 torx driver, but two of the screws are recessed deep, so make sure you have a long skinny torx driver, not a socket-drive one. I learned this the hard way.
Each arm (Left and Right) is its own mechanical unit, and its own Task, in the controller. You can switch between arms in the jogging screen, just like when you use an external-axis positioner. Each arm has 7 axes (A7 is in the middle of the arm), so the "axis group" button scrolls through 3 screens: 1-2-3, 4-5-6, and 7.
Selecting a program for either arm requires opening that arm's Task before using, for example, PP To Main.
The calibration marks on the arm axes are pretty good, but it's easy to hit the physical limit of, for example, Axis 6 while trying to jog to the marks. Fortunately, the internal collision detection appears to handle this well, but it doesn't throw any error messages -- instead, there was a loud click, and then Axis 5 started sagging as if it had lost brakes. Scared me good, but giving it a minute seemed to take care of everything.
The Axis 7 calibration marks are tricky -- there are two different marks on the same axis. The trick is that one mark is labelled R and the other L -- you use the R mark on the Right arm (as seen from "behind" the robot), and the L mark on the Left robot (again, as seen from "behind" the robot).
Once you have the marks lined up, you can Call the routine CalHal, or just go through the Calibration screen and hit the "CalHal" button instead of "Manual Calibration". Run this program like you would any other RAPID program. It will default to having all 7 axes [x]'d, and you can un-check any you don't want or need to calibrate. You'll get a couple TPReadFK pages to do this. Then the program will run each joint back-and forth a few degrees (one at a time, 1-7) and use some Hall sensors inside each axis to re-zero itself. I didn't try the Fine Calibration option, just the Update Rev Counters option, and it worked fine.
Oddly, one battery was held down by a piece of velcro tape, and the other needed a pair of zip ties.
