Key switch error is gone now after doing nothing, jumpered the EES (Have done this on a pervious machine so yes, I am familiar with the process and have used it successfully in the past), still same SRVO-007 error
SRVO-007 error alone, no seeming fix
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EPeters1 -
August 25, 2023 at 7:33 PM -
Thread is Unresolved
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Key switch error is gone now after doing nothing, jumpered the EES (Have done this on a pervious machine so yes, I am familiar with the process and have used it successfully in the past), still same SRVO-007 error
Ok, that indicates that the issue is not within the external E-stop chain.
Then it seems to be something wrong with the controller, as kwakisaki explained.From the Manual for the R-J3iB:
(7) SRVO–007 External E–stop
(Explanation) On the terminal block TBOP4 of the panel board, no
connection is made between 1 (EES1) and 2 (EES11)
or between 3 (EES2) and 4 (EES21). If an external
emergency stop switch is connected between 1
(EES1) and 2 (EES11) or between 3 (EES2) and 4
(EES21), the switch is pressed.
If the SYST–067 (Panel HSSB disconnect) alarm is
also generated, or if the LED (green) on the panel
board is turned off, communication between the main
board (JRS11) and the panel board (JRS11) is
abnormal. The connectors of the cable between the
main board and the panel board may be loose. Or, the
cable, panel board, or main board may be faulty.
(Note)
In case that RDY LED (green) is lit.
(Action 1) If an external emergency stop switch is connected,
releases the switch.
(Action 2) Check the switch and cable connected to 1 (EES1) –
2 (EES11), 3 (EES2) – 4 (EES21) on TBOP4.
(Action 3) When this signal is not used, make a connection
between 1 (EES1) and 2 (EES11) or 3 (EES2) and 4
(EES21).
(Action 4) Replace the panel board.
In case that RDY LED (green) is not lit.
(Action 1) Check whether FUSE1 on the panel board is blown.
If FUSE1 is blown, replace FUSE1 after removing
the cause.
Else if, check the voltage of EXT24V and EXT0V
(TBOP6). If external 24V, 0V is not used check the
jumper pins between EXT24V and INT24V, EXT0V
and INT 0V (TBOP6).
(Action 2) Replace the panel board.
(Action 3) Replace the cable connecting between the main board
(JRS11) and the panel board (JRS11).
Before executing the (Action4), perform a complete controller
back–up to save all your programs and settings.
(Action 4) Replace the main board.
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Yes, I saw that and my next step was to replace panel board as per action 4 if the panel LED is lit, which it was. Which I had already referenced doing earlier as well before they key switch error appeared. Having now replaced the panel board AND jumpered the EES I am able to bypass the error meaning the problem was both internal AND external.
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Well, not necessarily...
If you reconnect the external E-stops, do you get the error? If yes, then it seems that you had both internal and external fault. If no, then there doesn't seem to be an error with the external E-stop chain.
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Having now replaced the panel board AND jumpered the EES I am able to bypass the error meaning the problem was both internal AND external.
You are not bypassing the error at this point.
With the panel board being replaced AND the EES bridges in place, you are confirming the controller is operational and the external emergency safety input circuit is working.
If you reconnect the external E-stops, do you get the error? If yes, then it seems that you had both internal and external fault. If no, then there doesn't seem to be an error with the external E-stop chain.
100% agree gpunkt
I would be interested to hear why the switch was replaced, what alarm was generated to point you into replacing it and it keeps rearing it's head.
If the internal 24V is being used for the external emergency stop and not externally supplied, could suggest a common link if the internal 24V supply is distributed for use for the external emergency stop and switch supply, maybe being pulled down/overloaded.
Not sure if this is the case for Fanuc or not.
Maybe worth considering looking/swapping the PSU too.
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Yes if I reconnect the external e stop then the fault reappears. So there is still an external issue as I had stated. The switch was replaced because it physically broke, there wasn't an error in the past, it was physically damaged.
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Well that confirms it now.
Still have a question mark over the switch though, the action of replacing it could have a stray conductor causing an issue on the internal 24V PSU.....worth double checking that and confirming all is correct in there just to rule it out especially as that switch alarm appears to be rearing it's head.
Are there any safety devices the external emergency stops are wired into or are they series linked directly back to the EES inputs?
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To my knowledge its just wired into the inputs, there are no other sensors or stops or any device set up except the gate but that's a separate input altogether if I'm not mistaken.
I'll investigate the psu as per your concern but I don't understand how that wouldn't have happened immediately if it is an issue that occurred due to replacing the switch.
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I'll investigate the psu as per your concern but I don't understand how that wouldn't have happened immediately if it is an issue that occurred due to replacing the switch.
No that is not what I am 100% saying (maybe I didn't word it correctly).
The nature of 'swapping stuff' can introduce issues in other areas.
The fact you have mentioned about this switch alarm appearing and disappearing has set a 'flag' in me and could mean this could be related or unrelated, that is why I mentioned it.
I would shelve my mentioning of the PSU for now unless that error keeps rearing it's head.
To my knowledge its just wired into the inputs, there are no other sensors or stops or any device set up except the gate but that's a separate input altogether if I'm not mistaken.
Yes, safety gate has a different input (depending on how it's been installed), you can check this, if the safety gate switch is wired directly back to the EAS inputs or not.
I think at this point, without this switch alarm showing, you should proceed with checking the external wiring and external emergency stops then.
Depending on your own skills and no. of external emergency stops you have, this could take a while.
The below diagram shows how a standard series linked external emergency stop circuit will be wired, showing 2 emergency stop buttons in the series link providing the dual channel circuits:
You can see each emergency stop button has 2 pairs of contacts which provide the circuit path between each EESx to EESxx respectively.
Consider EES1 and EES11 as Channel 1 and EES2 and EES21 as Channel 2.
Your alarm is saying that Channel 1 and Channel 2 is broken - Permanent External Emergency Stop.
Just a case of finding the break in the chain and resolving it using various methods of troubleshooting the emergency stops and/or wiring between them and the controller.
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At this point I'm leaving it up to the electrician, I have it narrowed down to four wires, he can deal with the wire spaghetti that they lead into and figure out what's what. I did my part and have a clear issue for him so when he gets here we don't need to waste time on false leads.
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Sounds like a reasonable step forward.
You've done the legwork already by bridging/swapping and removing the external influence which has yielded a good controller and pointing to the external influence as the root cause.
Your 'spark' should have an easier path to resolution now.
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did you ever get this fixed EPeters1 ? I have the same issue
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