410iC Help manually releasing brakes

    Hello,

    My employer asked me to find out how to release the brakes on our 410iC unit we sent out for repainting. I replied with the part numbers of the brake release unit sold by Fanuc. They didn't buy it of course and now they need the robot repositioned ASAP in the paint shop without power. Has anyone here ever rigged up their own release unit? I looked through the service manuals and found the pins for the brakes and applied 24v to them but the brakes did not release. I am aware the arm will fall immediately once the brake is released. We have it rigged up to support and move it. I also read some other posts online that mention 90vdc for the brakes, but the manuals for this one say 24v. Any help is appreciated!

    Quote from Controls_Guy

    My employer asked me to find out how to release the brakes on our 410iC unit we sent out for repainting. I replied with the part numbers of the brake release unit sold by Fanuc. They didn't buy it of course and now they need the robot repositioned ASAP in the paint shop without power.

    The best for such costomers is to sell them the brake release unit with double price :smiling_face: ASAP needs more money, and when they'd be really pushed, they'd spent the money. Next time they'll listen to you :-)))

    The reason for releasing the brakes is to allow for the painters to reach all parts of the robot arm. Our sales guy likes fancy things so he talks customers into repainting their robots and buying stainless conveyor whenever possible.

    We have accounted for the falling arm by following the Fanuc manual on how to rig and support it during brake release using eye-bolts and rigging straps. We often do this with Kuka robots and made our own 24V battery powered kit to release the brakes.

    From what I've read I will need to line up the witness marks are remaster after we move the arm around without power.

    neighbour1, I so far haven't been able to find documentation on the brakes needing 90V to release. The electrical diagrams in the maintenance manuals indicate 24V. Could you point me in the right direction? Thanks!

    You shouldn't need to remaster as long as the encoders are still powered up, which they should be if the encoder batteries are not dead.

    You will get a pulse mismatch alarm though. Just reset the pulse coder alarm from the mastering screen, cycle power, set the master done variable to "true", then calibrate.

    The power cycle may not be needed, I can never remember with the pulse mismatch alarm.

    You also might need to re-apply DCS parameters, this is another one I can't remember off the top of my head, but you'll need to do it if you get a DCS alarm.

    Quote from pdl

    You shouldn't need to remaster as long as the encoders are still powered up, which they should be if the encoder batteries are not dead.

    You will get a pulse mismatch alarm though. Just reset the pulse coder alarm from the mastering screen, cycle power, set the master done variable to "true", then calibrate.

    The power cycle may not be needed, I can never remember with the pulse mismatch alarm.

    You also might need to re-apply DCS parameters, this is another one I can't remember off the top of my head, but you'll need to do it if you get a DCS alarm.

    Thanks pdl! This makes a lot of sense and I recall having to do that process in the past now.

    I ended up getting the manual for the brake release box from Fanuc. It confirmed that the brake voltage required is 90 volts. We wired up 7 12v batteries with a pushbutton to create our own brake release module and connected to the RM1 connector on the back of the robot on pins 12 (brake common) and 33 (J3 Brake). This worked like a charm. We supported the robot with straps from a skytrac and lifted the arm with the brake released, then re-engaged the brake once in position and unhooked the straps.

    Thanks for the help!

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