KRC2 booting issues

    it looks like sufficient power is supplied to PC (over X961 cable). It needs 24V. It gets 26,7V. I assume it is not the problem to get too much as the DC to DC box is converting further as the various boards require.

    If we see that ATX box is receiving voltage (26,7 V) then the next question, I guess is to see if that box is giving out right amount? :smiling_face: A plethora of cables are running out of ATX box, is it realistic to measure outflow? :smiling_face:

    Could the other way forward be to disconnect disconnect some of the data cables that run from controller to PC? This is assuming that ATX gives out right voltage & cards from HW perspective are all right, could it be that controller is blocking startup of PC via one of these cables?

    The reason I am thinking that controller might be stopping PC from starting is the blue screen that pretty much started this whole thread. I am re-posting the very first picture. It says "...your computer has been halted... I did not press that "any key" so it might be that controller is in the position of halting the PC, could that be so? Just guessing... ".

    Hi

    Let's forget for a moment that this is a computer to control a robot.

    Then, in case it does not start - first we check the power supply according to the scheme. https://www.robot-forum.com

    OR https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3200…12v-supply-made

    PIN 15 AND 16 MUST BE CONNECTED - THIS IS THE COMPUTER START BUTTON

    The power cord is disconnected from the system board

    Can you check if all the voltages on the pins match.

    You can also try to start the computer with another power supply - standard ATX 220 VOLT INPUT without being connected to the robot with an additional video card, mouse and keyboard without hard drive - the goal is to start and have access to the BIOS

    PIN 15 AND 16 MUST BE CONNECTED AGAIN - THIS IS THE COMPUTER START BUTTON

    Please, before taking tests, everything written so far should be clear to you - what and how it is done. If you have questions - ask

    The aim is to find out when the robot is switched on, whether the power supply is switched on correctly and whether the outputs have the necessary voltages, both when the cable is disconnected from the motherboard (no load) and when the cable is connected (with load)

    Success!

    Edited once, last by pipo (July 24, 2020 at 9:54 PM).

    pipo , panic mode , MOM, javaman, and everyone

    I just want to say thank you for your continuous support during this adventure (and my learning in this realm that is new for me).

    Guess we have arrived at a milestone:

    - I disconnected motherboard, cards, SSD and even CDROM form ATX, leving only the fan

    - also I disconnected all incoming cables from controller to PC leaving only the power cord

    - I did put paperclip from green to black and after I switched on the power the fan was turning

    - then I measured the 20 pin connector voltages and I was in for a surprise (this is what I got, my numbers in blue)

    robot-forum.com/attachment/27162/

    This is far from allowed range and clearly do not match output values on ATX box legend.

    The date on ATX box is May 2004 :smiling_face:

    To continue... :smiling_face:

    ATX current model is in the picture below

    A quick search for that same model on ebay gives used one for EUR ~250, a new one 5x more!


    Is this the type of device that can damage motherboard and cards if voltages are incorrect? Or are those cards protected and it is ok to opt for used ATX?

    Thanks

    I guess due to external links one of my posts were "Disabled" here it goes w/o links:

    ==

    To continue... :smiling_face:

    ATX current model is in the picture above

    A quick search for that same model on ebay gives used one for EUR ~250, a new one 5x more!

    Is this the type of device that can damage motherboard and cards if voltages are incorrect? Or are those cards protected and it is ok to opt for used ATX?

    Thanks

    And test step 3 if MB is OK

    plug to MB:

    MFC/DSE card

    HDD

    if You have other cards plug them

    Do NOT plug robot cables to avoid problems from possible potential differences

    Start PC and hope to start without errors. If start - check device manager for hardware issues

    I have an idea how to use ATX with 220-240 power supplay voltage for the robot but still under construction

    I have whatsapp if you need fast conversation

    Edited once, last by pipo (July 25, 2020 at 1:53 PM).

    with my limited knowledge I think it would be wise to stick to standard 24V input ATX :smiling_face:

    regarding the boards, yes, I'd like to continue to debug but:

    a) If MB would work, I still need to replace ATX given that that PC was not booting every first time I switched on controller for already a few months

    b) if MB would not work, I will not know if it is due to wrong incoming voltage or MB has been damaged

    Therefore, I think the next step could be to replace ATX and then power up PC w/o controller data cables and see if all the boards work and I can access BIOS.

    Except that the power supply is damaged - which has already been identified, it is good to find out if there is any other damage

    Therefore, if you have a working ATX 220v for testing, so we will find out if there is a fault in the MB and the cards

    If everything works, you will only change the power supply, but if the MB is damaged - it is better to buy a whole computer - this should be judged depending on the prices

    Hi,

    Yesterday received ATX replacement and the journey could continue. The first lesson I learned is that I shall listen more carefully to you, guys! javaman, you are right - voltage of ATX shall be tested on fully running system. Red and yellow wires are easy to measure on free 4 pin connector near CDROM, orange wire I measured on 20 pin connector form the other side. Both ATXes gave similar measurements that were well within the +/- 4% range.

    About starting up the PC. I have to say I am a bit embarrassed. pipo , panic mode, you correctly told me to use paper clip as power button but I wrongly misinterpreted that 20 pin connector shall be out (and we are doing this to just validate ATX). Yesterday I did three things together:

    a) I placed paper clip from green to black from the other side of 20 pin connector, with all ATX wires/plugs connected to PC

    b) I connected controller to PC cords (because external screen did not light up doing just "a)" and I wanted to use pendant's screen that way)

    c) I did "power on" by paperclip for 2nd consecutive time (as you may remember I still have this issue that on every 1st poweron, pendant is not showing anything)

    All these 3 conditions together + external keybord made pendant show startup on 2nd attempt. Using external keybord I was able to enter BIOS and load & save KUKA default settings.

    With this battery on motherboard is successfully changed :smiling_face: and I am back on square one :smiling_face: with status:

    1) system fully powers on with every 2nd consecutive time (even ~ 5 min power down will make system not start on 1st power on but only on 2nd) - but this is not the main issue

    2) after successful launching of Windows, startup stops on "Cross 3" (pic attached)

    My plan (as suggested by pipo) is to:

    - get same SSD HW as I currently have (Innolite EDC) and clone it.

    - save original, put cloned SSD into controller PC and re-install KSS.

    Great, if you guys have any other ideas of what I can attempt to do to correct "2)" while I wait for SSD HW!

    If KUKA software is not launching itself, could there be a way I manually start it up?

    Probably unrelated... back in the old days when things were running smooth there always has been this message on the screen after KUKA initiated. This seems to be some extension from previous owner, not sure what is StatKeyBar request, could it be that this extension is blocking loading of KSS? I never acted on this.

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