Multiple SRVO-068 DETURR Alarms

  • Ok so we have been dealing with these alarms quite often since the start of these lines and we've always just kind of dealt with it. Theses are R-2000iB robots with servo driven tooling on the end (G2:A1) that we use to eliminate excess aluminum off of friction stir welded parts. The issue is we have a problem with getting SRVO-068 DETURR alarms on G2:A1 which is the additional servo. In the past we just kind of chalked it up to be a combination of heat and vibration destroying our encoders. We usually only get one or two every couple weeks and we go in and pull the encoder cable off and plug it back in then do single axis mastering blah blah blah and off we go. Once they become a more frequent issue we end up swapping out the encoder cap and all is well again.


    So onto my main concern, one of our robots started getting these fairly frequently. Like 6-10 in a 8 hour shift so I swapped out the encoder cap to no avail. Next I did the encoder cable and then eventually the servo itself because we started blowing brake fuses a few days later. So now we have a new servo motor, new encoder cap, and new encoder cable but we are still getting these DETURR alarms at least 5-6 times per 8 hour shift. I have already checked through the forums and found a couple of hints that I tried one of them being checking the cables and the shielding grounds in the robot cabinet (which is a R-30iA) but no dice.


    I even slowed down the RPM's of the tool and the traveling speed of the robot itself to reduce vibration and still nothing. I even tried running an air hose out to the encoder cap to keep air blowing across it and it didn't seem to help. Do you guys think this is an issue with the internal harness? Or maybe the ARP 2 connector that we are plugged into? One common problem i've noticed when removing the bad encoder caps is that the ribbon inside always seems to be the issue. It appears as though that ribbon is getting hot against a component inside the cap and almost "melting" so i put small piece of insulator between there to keep it from touching but so far it's been inconclusive. Any additional info needed just ask! Thanks guys!


    **EDIT** we have six of these robots that all have identical programs/environments ect. And we are only fighting with this one currently on this particular issue so i'm thinking it's something specific to this robot.

    "I could tell that my parents hated me. My bath toys were a toaster and a radio."

    Edited once, last by SHIFT_Lock ().

  • Not sure if you have tried this or not, but lately I have had a few of these where the wires coming from the battery on the door, going to the connector inside the robot cabinet have been damaged. The area I have seen is right at the connector where they have the clamp inside the connector. If that makes sense.


  • Not sure if you have tried this or not, but lately I have had a few of these where the wires coming from the battery on the door, going to the connector inside the robot cabinet have been damaged. The area I have seen is right at the connector where they have the clamp inside the connector. If that makes sense.


    I’m not sure I follow you completely as the only batteries on our setup are the 4 D batteries in the robot base and then the CPU backup battery. Should we have another battery “protecting” this external axis? Because that actually makes a lot of sense. If so is there anyway you could show me a picture of where it goes? Or I can send a couple of the inside of our cabinets for reference?

    "I could tell that my parents hated me. My bath toys were a toaster and a radio."

  • Ok that’s where I was confused at. That’s an R-30iB controller which we do have some of those but the robot in question is run by a R-30iA controller without that battery option. And I have changed all four D batteries in the robot base as well.

    "I could tell that my parents hated me. My bath toys were a toaster and a radio."


  • R-30iA controller has batteries inside door on lower left corner.


    Negative ghost rider. There is one battery in my cabinet and that’s the CPU backup. Is this something maybe we should look into to aid in our efforts to eliminate so many of these nuisance alarms? Or is this just an alternative location for the batteries rather than the robot base?

    "I could tell that my parents hated me. My bath toys were a toaster and a radio."

  • You should have a battery box somewhere for the aux axis, otherwise you would have to remaster that axis each time the controller was powered off/on. But thats a different issue than the OP. Its sounding to me like the motor is overheating causing the pulsecoder to fail, are you sure the brake config is correct in the aux axis setup? Some motors will have no problem driving through the brake while still engaged which would cause a lot of heat and probably even blow the brake fuse.


  • Or is this just an alternative location for the batteries rather than the robot base?

    No, the pictured machine has two sets of batteries - one in the robot base AND one inside the door. This machine has two robots. The other one has no external axis - or door-mounted battery box.


  • You should have a battery box somewhere for the aux axis, otherwise you would have to remaster that axis each time the controller was powered off/on. But thats a different issue than the OP. Its sounding to me like the motor is overheating causing the pulsecoder to fail, are you sure the brake config is correct in the aux axis setup? Some motors will have no problem driving through the brake while still engaged which would cause a lot of heat and probably even blow the brake fuse.


    The issue when we blew the brake fuse was entirely related to the servo motor itself being bad and was extremely hot almost to the point of not being able to touch it. We have only ran into that issue like twice in the last 6 years so I would assume that the brake config is right?? But we all know what happens when you assume haha. Now i know these run warm just like any servo on a robot tends to have some heat coming off of it i'm just wondering if this heat in combination with the excessive vibration of milling down aluminum burrs is the cause of our random once in a while DETURR alarms? Which that part we can live with for now my main concern now is that after blowing the brake fuse we swapped servo motors with a brand new one also has a new cap and new cable yet we are getting 6-8 of these SRVO-068 a day now. I swapped the Cap out with another new cap just to see if anything changed and nothing and then we threw another brand new cable on it and still nothing. :wallbash: Should I try just throwing another servo on it? We have more new ones that I could try it out with I believe. Or should I be looking somewhere else?


    **EDIT** you mentioned having a seperate battery for the aux axis yet I am almost certain we do not. Is this not protected by the 4 D cell batteries in the base of the robot? We are plugged into the ARP2 plug so I assumed that the same four batteries covered this axis.



    If you go to the "Alarm History"..... are there any battery alarms? :hmmm:


    The only time we get a Battery Alarm is when we disconnect the encoder cap on G2:A1 to do the single axis mastering and recalibrate. Which is expected but just to be sure I have swapped the robots batteries out and even tested the old ones and everything seems to be on the up and up.

    "I could tell that my parents hated me. My bath toys were a toaster and a radio."

    Edited once, last by SHIFT_Lock ().


  • Swap the Servo Amp. I would!


    I actually did swap it out originally before I did the servo motor thinking "well lets start cheap and work our way up" but blew the brake fuse again. So when I swapped the servo I swapped the AMP back to the original. Maybe I should start with my connections and then maybe swap it back out. I have a new one to try but is there supposed to be a separate battery somewhere for this external axis?

    "I could tell that my parents hated me. My bath toys were a toaster and a radio."

  • There are externally visible batteries for your calibration values. In the previous articles on the subject, everyone has already written. But on the servo board, there are some voltage components on the circuit similar to some batteries. Sometimes they may appear in the battery view, sometimes in condenser view.
    If these circuit elements leak, you may have a serious increase in the voltage or frequency values that you need to go to your engine. The cable changes, the engine changes, the battery changes, the robot runs smoothly but all values disappear at a time,
    the robot switches to fault and the motor or cable or connector starts to warm up from a place where you will never guess. Priorities are required to make sure that the servo drive is in the software and is working properly. Servo Card
    A tiny shock diode on you can shed all your hair ...


  • It's going to be the encoder, the cabling, or the amp.
    Batteries arer not a consideration for this alarm.


    Well I pulled the amp out of the spare cabinet we have here and unfortunately it is the wrong size. But I did notice that three of the six robots have two Ai160 servo amps tied together and the other three have one Ai20 amp but all six robots preform the same function and are set up identical. I'm not certain if this is a parameter change or system variable change or what? ??? I'm not sure why but i'm going to get with our engineer tomorrow and see if I can get his input on this. I also noticed that the rubber bushing that we have on the servo chuck coupler is worn out which is not helping. These couplers bolt to the servo shaft and also the tooling shaft inside of a housing and interlock with each other eliminating the need for square keys and also providing a bit of vibration dampner. Only thing I did today was power the cabinet down and take a air hose to the cabinet to get all the dust out of the fans and cooling fins to see if it'll help. I'm going to see about maybe swapping the amps on two robot cabinets that have the same one and see if the problem follows. If it does i'll see if my boss will get us a new one. Thanks for all the help guys!



    I fixed this alarm, (2 years and counting) by tightening the shield clamps inside the control cabinet, on the advice of RacerMike :respect:. Knock on wood


    That was one of the first things I tried because I read that same post from him haha. But thank you!

  • Are the larger and smaller amps from the same series? The 4 middle digits of the part number would be the same if they were. Give us the 12 digit numbers if you can.
    Are you sure the cells are setup the same? Two 160Apk amps tied together in 3 controllers and a single 20Apk in the other 3 controllers seems different.
    Motor size determines amp size.

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