We used to have several old AD controllers at my work, if you display is not clear you can remove the back cover and there at some adjusting potentiometers to adjust the display brightness, I used to do this with the unit powered up to see the results of adjusting, I think the adjustments are on the screen circuit board, very easy to do. But your screen in the photo does not look too bad compared to some we had.
Kawasaki UX150 A55 Help required to return to life
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Nzhuhu -
July 10, 2018 at 2:13 PM -
Thread is marked as Resolved.
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Dear Kwakisaki, Tdevine77 and everyone,
I hope everyone had a very lovely weekend. After hours wiring the connector to 1 end on each wires and locate each wire on each pin, I have the result.
Total 44 pairs or twists of wires and 73 pins out, we have :
37 pairs or twists are located on 72 pins, 1 pair sharing 2 pin from another 2 pairs i think they share the GND 12v ( should be 3 as pages 137 )
Pin BD is not reponse to any wire
7 pairs or twists not respones to any pins, here is the list of it :
White + Black Black + Grey White + Grey
White + Brown Black + Brown Brown + Grey
Yellow + PinkI still do not have time to learn all instruction step to run it manually, I am apologies for it.
My Best Regards to Kwakisaki and Tdevine77,
Trung -
That's a good tip from tdevine77.
- I wonder if there is also a contrast adjustment within the Teach Pendant mounted to the LCD board......hmmm....worth a look.Not too sure about the specific no. of twists, but if you cross reference the manual, if you have connected the pins and have used DVM to measure continuity between pins CN3 and No.4 and connections are same as manual, then cable should be ok to use.
Twists are more appropriate with encoder signals.
Power supplies and earth do not necessarily twist, but Kawasaki may have the 12V and GND lines twisted also.
- But usually they insert link between all GND lines to common all up.Have you connected yet?
- You could do with connecting and powering up, this way we can see if the encoders are communicating and the other signals are responding.
- This will confirm connectivity and if the encoder errors can be cleared too.
- Which will just probably leave an encoder battery low voltage error. -
Dear Kwakisaki and Tdevine77,
I am very sorry for the delay. My boss chasing me around for his Tree Result but I think I will power the robot up tomorrow ( Friday ). Here is my very each step on what I will do:
Power on ( Turn on the CB in front of Controller Box )
---> Motor Power On ( Press the Button on AD control which on top of Controller Box )
---> Turn The Switch to Teach funtion
---> Turn The Switch to Run funtion
---> Turn Teach Pendant On
---> Choose Movement Coordinate System Selection Key ( I think that is the Joint/Base/Tool button on Teach Pendant )
---> Select Joint funtion of Joint/Base/Tool Button
---> Choose Medium Speed of Movement ( Double Up Arrow )
---> Pull " Trigger SW " on the Back of Teach Pendant Firmly and Secure while moving any Single Axis.
I hope there will be smoothly run, I will try to clear error and taking photo of each error.Please correct me if something wrong.
I still have not completly 100% clear between Joint/Base/Tool each funtion ( each funtion is advantage/disadvantage or best choice for kind of run ).
I have a lot going on in my mind but i can not remember them all when replying in our forum. I think I will have to take note by writing on Paper whenever I can.My best REGARDS to Kwakisaki and Tdevine77,
Trung -
Dear Kwakisaki and Tdevine77,
I have powering the Controller and connecting all 3 cables to the robot arm. I am stuck on " Step 5 Wait Sig 1002 " and Error 600 Motor Power OFF ".
I tried to Clear Error Button - No Respone. Press Motor On - Nothing Happen ( Error Message flash off/on again ).
I have attach 3 pictures of Status, Monitor and Location. Also after press F1 , F2, etc, I can not get back to the orginal screen even restart Controller Box.Please help me out, I was so exciting when powering it up, screen look so beautiful then so disapointed when i can not move anything.
I am sure I miss something on instruction but i do not know where.My very BIG THANK to Kwakisaki and Tdevine77,
Trung -
Ooooh........Looking good..........
I've not been around for a bit, and have just noticed the stage you are at.
So no encoder errors, and all joint angles are displaying angles within the usual limits.
- Looks like your cabling and zeroing data looks all intact too.....Bonus for sure.Ok, sorry to hear about 'your disappointment' with not being able to move the robot, so lets see what we can do to get you away.
Motor Power will not turn on if:
1. There is an active hardware error.
2. Hardware Limit Switches (Mounted to the external Arm have been triggered).
3. The Safety Input Circuit is broken - ie Emergency Stop buttons pressed/failed.
4. The External Safety Input Interlock is not wired - the dedicated terminals for an External Emergency Stop.
5. The Deadmans is not pressed in before Motor Power button is pressed.Your list is correct, BUT for Motor Power to become active, you have to have the Deadmans pressed first, then press Motor Power.
- Motor Power should light up then, and the main supply contactors should energise and the robot brakes release, allowing motion.
- If you release the Deadmans at any point, then motor power will turn off.
- So you need to repeat it again to turn motor power on.Try, the above and see if it works.
If not, then we have to look at points 2-4 and see if we can resolve (point 1 is ok, as you have no hardware error showing).
Can you take good picture of TB1 terminal rail inside controller, I think links need to be made to EMG connections in order to Set Safety Interlock - I think this is external emergency stop and may be causing the issue, I need to check document to see if I can find correct information.
Does TB2 exist in your Controller anywhere - similar to attached.
Also Check Jumper and Connection to 9ZR Board CN3 - see attached - This would stop motor power. (External IO Manual I sent you)Also, can you take good close picture containing ALL terminal rails inside controller - I think all at the bottom.
Your 'F' Keys should be applicable to what I have circled in attached.
- If they do not work, those keys maybe damaged.
- Do you have Physical Keyboard with that Controller too - This can be used also. -
Thank you Kwakisaki,
Yeah i was very disapointed of myself. I was very upset, feel like I have no idea no knowledge to do something that I am sure I can learn.
I have check again and again, I do not see any mention of DeadMan Switch in any document, searching Google it show the Trigger Switch at the back of Teach Pendant.
I am very sure after Turn on Power, I did not pull and hold that Trigger Switch and press Motor Power on at same time. I only pressed Motor Power On alone after reset any error.
I hope that is the reason for the unsatisfy result. I will take photo of each part inside Controller box as soon as I can.
Sorry I do not have the Keyboard of it.My best Regards,
Trung -
Sorry yes, Trigger and Deadmans is same.
Most common term is Deadmans........Kawasaki Manuals and errors say Trigger.....but same hardware, just different name.
So Press trigger, whilst holding trigger in, press motor power - should light, stay lit and contactors energise, releases brakes and robot can be moved.
- But if issue with safety connection, then motor power will not light.
- Check my other info I attach earlier for 9ZR board cn3 connector also. -
Wow that is very fast reply from you. I have almost 20 pictures, please allow me to post it. I know it will take too much storage from our website, I am very sorry for that. But to coordinate the problem, the real picture will help alots for us and easy for someone later to learn from it.
Hopefully I am able to try the Deadmans instruction tomorrow. So here is the way to do it :Power On ---> Teach - Run ---> Turn on Teach Pendant ---> Press plus Hold till Deadmans Switch/Button ( or Trigger Switch on the back of Teach Pendant as Kawasaki Manual describe ) and press Motor Power Button on the Controller Box.
If the Motor Power light is on moving to next step :
Select Join after press Join/Base/Tool button on Teach Pendant
---> Choose Medium Speed
---> Move any Axis freelySo During all that Press + Select + Move, I have to Press and Hold Still DeadMans or Trigger Switch at all time, am i right ?
Do you have any idea how to exit back to Original Screen after press F1 F2 F3,etc ?
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I am very sorry for uploading pictures, please allow me and accept my apologies. Thank you very much !!!
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Lol....many pictures indeed.....
I think you need links or switches in TB1 between:
EXT-EMG and ECOM
EHLD and ECOM
(See Attached - Can you trace blue cables - I think these go to CN3 Connection on 9ZR Board).EXT-EMG = CN3 Pin No.3, ECOM = CN3 Pin No.21, EHLD = CN3 Pin No. 2
(refer to my earlier post with image of CN3 Jumper and Connections).Can you upload picture of original screen you want to return to?
- My earlier post with yellow circle, F keys return to the option above the F key on screen.Yes, there are several variations of order of operation, but some have to be carried out in order as they can prevent further operations.
A quick summary:If in active E/stop, Hardware error or safety input circuit is activated - No Motor Power possible.
When Teach/Repeat Switch is toggled - Motor Power if on, turns off.
If Run/Hold is in Hold - Brakes will not release.
If Teach Pendant switch is not on - axis keys, speed, and interpolation mode (Joint/Base/Tool) Modes cannot be changed.Therefore you just need:
Part A
- Controller On.
- No hardware error, All E/stops out, and Safety Circuit good.
- Run/Hold set to Run.
- Press and hold trigger.
- Press Motor Power once.
This should immediately activate contactor and release brakes - Robot is energised and being controlled and should not produce error - This will confirm safety and hardware is goodAfter that (whilst still pressing trigger):
Part B
- Turn Teach Pendant On (if pendant not on, the following cannot be changed).
- Select Interpolation Mode (Joint/Base/Tool).
- Select Manual Speed.
- Press required Axis Key for motion.
If you release trigger at any point, motor power turns off, just press trigger and hold in and press motor power once to activate againAbove is the long method...........
Part A is required so that Part B can be used.
Part B could be set first if you require - but Part A is fundamental and if that does not work, we need to investigate further - See earlier post. -
Dear Kwakisaki,
I have traced the ext-emg, ecom and ehld line, they going to CN5 on the big mother board in the back. It mark BX-CN5A, right next to it is another jacks going out from mother board (i assum) mark BX-CN5B. To be continued
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Ok.......so many variations of this type of Controller, we do not want to make mistake and mis-wire.
So from what you say, those connections to BX-CN5A.
- Insert link on TB1 between EXT-EMG and ECOM and see if you can achieve Motor Power.
- This is supposed to be connected using and Emergency Stop Switch.Also I think check 9ZR board for J5 Jumper on board.
- I attach image for you to check -
I laughing right now because I feel like we both walk into something that not usual. I think this robot controller been modify or upgrade to the last Factory's need. Please let me resume what I have learn.
According in our Manual 90202-1002 DEF - In the Controller there are 1 big Mother Board - name is BX board
There are 3 other Board connecting to it are :
AE Board out put No4 port - CN3 port to robot Arm - I actually have 1AE-54 Board
ZA Board out put signal to Controll Panel - I actually have 9ZA-11 Board
BP Board out put No3 port - CN1 and No2 port - CN2 - I actually have 1BP-55 BoardAlso I do have the 4th Board is 9ZRI3 - 9ZR33 ( both mark on 1 board ) ----> Is it necessary ? I found it does, I pulled it out, turn on power and the Screen stuck saying no I/O signal.
Here is very tricky question for me, If ZR board is requied why there are no drawing in Manual.About those 2 jumper J5 they put it both at 1-2 pin. Are you saying I have to change them both to 2-3 pin?
My theory is the ZR board is open communication to other device via PLC system ( as i learn it from you ). Because of other device is not functioning ( no respone to our Robot Controller or in my Case is I have no other Device ) so the Robot will standing-by. If that so, I hope we can find a way to get rid of that ZR Board.
I have found out there is page 42-47 mention of ZR Board as Sensor connection, I think i found it but again, is it a must to have ? Well all 4 CN cables from that ZR board is been cut without other half, if it is a must I think I will have to find and buy new cable or soldering it. And I have not locate or seen the port of all sensor cable coming out from Robot Arm.
Well, fix and learn are the good way to memories everything !!!
I will attach all 4 board picture, please do have a look.Very Very Very THANK YOU Kwakisaki !!!
Trung -
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I laughing right now because I feel like we both walk into something that not usual. I think this robot controller been modify or upgrade to the last Factory's need.
This could well, be true......so it may take sometime to get it going.....BUT at moment, it is in very good condition to operate.
- We just need to overcome small obstacle.Please don't get overcome with all jumpers/settings......we need to make sure we have correct wiring for Robot Operation/Motion.
- Sensors, IO signals can be looked at after.OK, I missed your question above regarding 9ZR Board
- System configuration will be set to IO signals.
- If board missing, then IO errors will occur.
- So leave board connected and remove all CN cables from front, so all unconnected and board plugged in correct slot.
- Yes, this board is required for communication with external device such as PLC.
- But.....Information I have also includes possible connection requirement for Safety Circuit.
- This what J5 jumpers are for, so possible we need connection to 9ZR board.......but picture you provide say no requirement.
- But leave board in, with nothing connected on front for now.The pictures you have provided are excellent and information we have between us, we should be able to succeed.....but please have patience, we will succeed.
- I have spare time over weekend to study boards and information and hopefully we get result soon.Have you attached link/emergency stop to connection on TB1 like I ask?
With your list of boards now, I think we can now use AD Electrical Maintenance Manual to fix - Did I send you this Manual?
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Look like we both so ready for this " obstacle " . Sorry Kwakisaki, I have not do it but I will do it on Monday for sure. Did you mean to make a Jump by connecting EXT-EMG and Ecom, you want me to do like the red line on the left of picture or red line on the right of picture ?
Also my brain was a head of my eyes, J5 has 2 invidual jumper 123 ( Off Motor Power ) and 456 ( HOLD - another way to unable to turn on Motor Power because Controller on HOLD - I assumed ) as manual say and the board describe. I think we should turn them into UNUSED condition ( I hope it mean No Out Side - External Communication to Control the Controller ). This afternoon I did it but only half way, I was only turn 12 to 23 and let 45 stay still so still External Holding. I hope this idea might be correct, please teach me explain to me if it is wrong.
Anyway, when i remove the ZR Board, they put them at 12 and 45 so both Motor Power Off and HOLD are active for External Used.
Well Kwakisaki, we are no rush. Please do enjoy your Weekend !!
My Big Regards,
TrungPS: Yes I have that AD-Electrical Maintenance. I will learn it soon.
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This is good challenge, if life was simple, it would be boring......so bring on the challenges I say.......
Yes, like red line on left.
- This is intended for Emergency Stop Switch - so by placing in link it is bypassed.
- It is possible this could be only problem.
- But it is required.Provide a list of what LED's are on the 1BP board, these may help trace problem if still no motor power
QuoteAlso my brain was a head of my eyes
Excellent comment........I call it chasing your tail.I shall look at your pictures of jumpers and compare with information from manuals and see if all ok.
Enjoy yours too.............
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Hello Kwakisaki,
About Emergency Stop Button on AD controller and Teach Pendant. I checked them out, both of them are functioning and respone, testing by Press it and turn it clockwise to release the button, both of them are working good.
Eternal emergency stop signal -----> The 4 CN wires from ZR board are being cut off so there is no signal coming in to put Emergency stop on but I think there is a chance the HOLD being active to wait for External Signal.
" 9ZR or 1BP board, 1BP board connector, wiring on the panel " - completely do not understand lol.
Tomorow Monday, I will do Move all the J5 of ZR board to 23 and 56 ( plus remove all the Cable coming from that board ), if not I will turn them back to 12 45 as original.
Then I will do the Wire Link on TB1, if not success.
We will dig deeper. Oh I will taking picture of all LED in the controller box when it is on, each board as clear as possible.Thank you Kwakisaki,
Trung -
1BP jumpers:
- JP3 and JP5 are set to Standard, so I think set correct.
- It is possible that LS signals are required according to SW1.
- LS are for Limit Switches fitted to Robot Arm - These are also safety function, if open circuit, no motor power..
- Can you check Robot Arm for physical switch or leftovers of old ones mounted externally on Robot Casting for Joint 1, Joint 2 and Joint 3.
- If not fitted, may need to also adjust SW1 as in attached.I think if you set 9ZR jumper J5 to 23 56, then no need for connection to 9ZR board as not to be used.
For information:
- External Hold does not stop motor power, only error or safety does.
- External Hold only used in Repeat Mode, so robot should still be able to move in Teach without need of this signal. -
On the AD_Electrical Maintenance Document which you sent to me, on page 39 there is a drawing of small box with 115v ac jack, Fuse, 2 open slot and 1 Square button ( I do remember color of it is Green ), yes I do have it on my controller box and if not mistake it say Overided LS under that Green Button. It is press and release kind of button with crystal clear Acrylic cover it, when using it i have to lid the cover up and press the button ( totally feel very important button ).
Yeah i will find and open all small pocket cover on my robot to find that LS switch.
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