How to teach my Tool Center Point?

    Hello guys! Me again haha!
    During the last 13 weeks that I've been working with a Kawasaki FS06L with D71F controller, I had the TCP set up with a transformation variable. like:
    toolnr[0] = blablabla :fine:
    toolnr[1] = blablabla
    ... the values in there are measured by hand and I don't think it's accurate enough. because I have a 50mm sucker. and when i let it move inside a coffee cup, it does touch the edges.
    From that experience xD I can tell that it doesn't really know the center.
    The tool (sucker) is on a 45 degree steel triangular tube or socket whatever it's called (see pictures)
    The guys who programmed the kawa before me did it with a sort of as code, but I don't really liked that method, because I saw Auto tool calibration in the AUX menu.. I liked how it sounds :angel: but don't know how to use it.
    Besides that, how do you actually zero the robot? Just moving it to the zero increment "stripes" , shutdown mtr_pwr and then zero + rotation count reset?
    I check internal cabling for rotation,corrected that already, anything else to check on? that you guys know? The robot has been in a storage for 6 years... so maybe I overlooked something.
    And I see a lot of dip switches on my 1KB and 1KA board, what do they do? I thought they we're used to compare addresses and detect address mismatches?
    Would love to get an answer to a lot of these questions because I want to learn more and more!
    So if you guys know anything cool to do with the kawasaki or other cool aux functions that make things a lot easier, please tell me. (Not for welding and stuff, just pick&place>Pallet unloading and going to different stations.)
    Cheers and have a great "TCP Tuesday :uglyhammer2: "

    Use a 'mans' coffee cup and it wont touch the sides......sorry, couldn't resist..... :uglyhammer2:


    - If they are measured by hand, what values have you entered and what did you measure from and to?
    - Looking at the pictures your OAT looks like a solid 90, 45, 90 or even -90, -45, -90, no idea about XYZ (but X looks near 0).


    How conversant are with the Kawasaki 'Left Hand Rule'?
    - I ask as this is the fundamental that you could do with understanding first, that way you could opt to not try the 'easy' route of teaching a TCP (refer to the Operations and AS Manual).
    - However, I wouldn't say the Auto Tool Calibration is necessarily easy........if you manage it first time...Well done, takes some doing as the manuals I believe are not clear and I think are incorrect.
    - Have a look in the manual and give it a go.........
    - I think you would prefer the A+B method.....AS Manual for teaching an unknown tool.
    - I've used both and compared my results just teaching by 'eye' and the results were very comparable........

    I did exactly what the manual said and it just went full retard... So I changed the tool values manually, made my T (from O,A,T,) a minus 90 instead of just 90. so now my Y direction is more logical for operator etc.
    Thanks anyway! I also checked the auto load measurement function in the AUX but that's not relevant for me because my max load is like 2 kg's.
    so in the end... the coffee cup is not only good for me but also for manual tool teaching :winking_face: (at least some clear reference :uglyhammer2:)

    Quote

    I did exactly what the manual said and it just went full retard...

    ......Is that a technical term, for it didn't work.....
    - You should persevere with it........not bad results when you get it right.


    As for the manual....yes, a little misleading trying to express a 3d diagram on paper.....
    However........I use this type of method.....but depending on physical tool dimensions, can be awkward, however:


    All done in BASE Interpolation, starting with JT6 at zero degrees (where possible).
    - I do some test moves prior to using Auto Tool so that I can achieve max orientation around intended points A1-A4....plus I try and use a 'movable reference point' and attach some zippy clips to it parallel to the BASE for alignment assistance..
    As viewed from behind the robot looking towards the reference point:
    1. A1 pointing right (towards X+ of BASE NULL) - Teach.
    2. Then X-.........then Z+........then RY.....then Z-.
    3. A2 pointing perpendicular down (towards Z- of BASE NULL) - Teach.
    4. Then Z+.......then Y+........then RX.......then Y-.
    5. A3 pointing backwards (towards Y- of BASE NULL) - Teach.
    6. Then Y+......then X+......then RZ......then X-.
    7. A4 point left (towards X- of BASE NULL and PARALLEL to the BASE X Axis) - Very important as this is the reference point for B and C - this is the usually where people go wrong (from my experience) - Teach.
    8. B 100mm min X+ - Teach.
    9. X- back to A4 location.
    10. C 100mm min Y+ - Teach.


    - Evaluate results......repeat if necessary


    The manual states that Point B will be your Z- of your tool and Point C will be your Y+ of your tool (this is incorrect.....it is Y- of your tool I have found).
    - Give it a go and see if the above helps reduce the 'full retard effect'................

    I made a video using KROSET demonstrating the Auto Tool Registration method here if it helps:

    E Controller - Auto Tool Setup using 6 point method - Manuals, Software and Tools for Kawasaki Robots - Robotforum - Support and discussion community for industrial robots and cobots (robot-forum.com)


    E Controller has the function of creating the positions as part of a program, so you can revisit them during as demonstrated.

    Gets a little bit to get used to but works very well.

    Of course in KROSET it is pretty much 'bob on', in real world, you are better off using DTI's to increase accuracy.

    You're welcome, glad it helps.

    Poses can be anywhere you deem is necessary (not necessarily as per the video) but you need to maximize the orientation differences between poses to ensure no errors are produced when it carries out the calculation and the values are accurate.


    E Controller has the ability of creating/saving/revisiting locations throughout which does make it easier.


    I usually spend a good half day (at least) setting the TCP and dialling it in.

    I can always improve on the initial values so I use a combination for comparing data and actual accuracy:

    - Auto Tool

    - A+B Method

    - Tape Measure

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