VKRC1 how to auto mode from ext.auto and other tips

  • For all who are trying to get a functioning Auto mode on VKRC1 and most probably GM KRC1, this is the only working solution that does not require anything external or any config changes since no change in configs or in/out asigments will do the trick.
    It does however require about 15 minutes of time a welding iron a flathead and a philips screwdriver and a 2cm piece of wire.
    Open the pendant, use the flathead to remove the rubber shielding around the E-stop button, remove the screws and CAREFULLY remove the back cover. DO NOT PULL THE BACK COVER it will mess a lot of wires inside.
    Now have a look at the attached pictures, make a cut on the line as shown and solder the wire betwen 2 terminals on the back of the selector switch.
    That is it. Now you are a proud owner of a fully automatic KUKA robot.
    More to come.
    Regards
    Tom

  • It is hardware built in, just the switch does not have the AUTO setting. This removes the auto-external option and activates the auto mode.
    It works and it does not need any software modifications, it has been working for over 2 months without a hitch.
    Regards,
    Tom

  • Expected this to be in the controller panel and not the pendant, very interesting. I'm not close to the KRC1 so what is your process to set up and run an auto program? Set up cell.src? What position does controller key mode need to be in (currently use T2 mode)...


    Thanks!



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  • Apparently it does not use the cell.src file, that is used only in ext.aut mode, so no modifications at all on the software side (mine did not need any). This one had T1, T2 and EXT.AUT modes on the key, so i disconnected the ext.aut and wired it to AUT. Now it functions as a stand alone fully automatic. B.Th.W. i did try the software modifications mentioned on-line, but none of them work. Someone on this forum mentioned that the only way was having an electronic engineer wire it properly, and me being one, i checked the control cabinet and did not find a viable solution so i opened the pendant and found out it was as simple as cutting a line and wiring another.
    As a side note, some have only 2 settings for the key or switch, some 3 and some do have all 4, but never a VKRC has all 4, only 2 or 3. Also GM ones have 2 or 3 modes, never full AUTO.
    Tom

  • Well, gave this a shot with GM KRC1, unfortunately lost the deadman switches / ability to use robot in T1/T2 mode. Maybe the VKRC1 is different?



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  • For sure this did NOT cause that. You have pulled the back pannel and that resulted in cut wires going to dead man switch.
    I explicitly mentionet not ot pull the back pannel.
    Open it again and solder back the wires.
    Loosing dead man switch functionality has nothing to do with modifying the mode selector switch, it has separate wiring.
    You could also let us know if the auto mode is working, if it is you are welcomed, if not, ........check it again.
    Regards,
    Tom
    P.s.
    The VKRC1 are the same on both versions, this same modification works on VKRC2 also.

  • Hmm, weird, very careful not to pull back panel. Ribbon cable hasn't been stretched, but will double check.


    Trying auto mode gave me an operator safety gate open error, which is I assume a completely different interlock that I'll have to go chase...



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  • Actually on my TP the deadmans are buttons mounted to back circuit board, no way those could be cut or altered, let me reverse the solder change and see if that brings it back...



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  • Ok, will check back here later.
    The safety error is most probably on the X11 connector, so check that and wire everything as a standalone, it is explained in the manuals.
    Edit
    Dead man switch cables are on one of the holders where the ribbon is attached, there is a start button there also.

  • Follow up - it was something finicky with the deadman switch circuit in the circular button on the back panel. Reseated it and it came back to life. Maybe it didn't like being exposed to air after 15 years and needed an adjustment, but indeed had nothing to do with the soldering change.



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  • Yeah, we have those X11 pins jumpered but either have an I/O misconfiguration or something wrong with one of the jumps, do you know what the controller is looking at for the operator gate circuit?



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  • Yes, it is looking for an actual safety gate with a switch that gets closed when the gate closes, so if anyone opens that gate while the robot is running, it will stop the robot movement immediately.
    Find the wiring diagrams, i am sure it has a section explaining the wiring of X11 connector for running standalone, there has to be a jumper for it installed if you do not have an actual gate installed.

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