January 18, 2019, 03:46:54 AM
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 Kawasaki UX150 A55 Help required to return to life


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August 01, 2018, 03:05:48 PM
Reply #50
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwasaki,
Yes i did mean the power turn on and off cycling base on the top relay, when it on power on when it off power off, just 1 or 2 second between.
The power suplly should be ok because i am using the same line as my own unit but i will making sure tomorrow incaee the transformer is too old. Somehow i had check before the voltage is 23.9 or almost 24.
To be honest i dont understand the diagram you quote to me. Sorry i have not attend at electric university class. I was banking finance class.
I am very sorry, some time my brain working so brightly, most of time is Numb  :wallbash:

Please do give me some time to study.
Very big Thank you and my big sincerly,
Trung
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Today at 03:46:54 AM
Reply #51

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August 01, 2018, 06:33:33 PM
Reply #51
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kwakisaki

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OK, I got the impression from your previous posts, you were 'electrically minded', soldering, volt measuring etc.
- In that case, lets not rush.

I am going from what I read in the manual write up of the power up circuit and the electrical schematic of it in conjunction with your pictures you provide.

Providing incoming supplies are correct and the AVR is a stable 24V Output, the power control voltages should be available.
- These voltages are supplied to the 1BP board and along the BX Motherboard to CN5A.
- BX CN5A then supplies the coils of CR1 to CR4.

So if there is an issue with AVR, it will directly effect the Control Power up sequence and CR1 - CR4 operations.
(I think this is a circuit to shut off the controller completely from a Master Control Panel - like what you would have on a production line with many robots).

I am always a little hesitant when I am dealing with controllers that have different configurations than what's listed in the manuals, makes me wonder if:
- There is an underlying fault that someone has removed cables to bodge it to work.
- Is CR3 actually working and are all contacts working.
- Someone has purposely removed it in order to sabotage.
- Has someone removed these cables in order to try and get it working perhaps and made things worse.
...............................Many Scenario's............................

So I want to approach this with caution as I could be reading this wrong or make a mistake.......I have deleted my previous post as I am now looking at it from a different angle.

Can you or your friend provide a basic drawing of both of those relays (the image is not as clear as I thought):
- Wire ident (no.) to which terminal on Relay Units.

Can you also provide images Controller inside (like you did at the start with your controllers) as well as Jumpers on BP Board.

I ask, as your friends controller appears to be slightly different - different age, different supply voltage transformer, different setup/configuration perhaps, different BX5NA configuration... ???

« Last Edit: August 02, 2018, 05:31:38 AM by kwakisaki »
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August 02, 2018, 09:55:49 AM
Reply #52
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

There is a Label inside Controller Box say 1993 so I would like to assume this machine is 1993 version.
As you can see in the picture the big difference we can notice between this controller to mine controller is Big Black Power Unit compare to mine are 3 Green Coils.

I have found on the Document which you sent to me " 90206-1019 A8x trouble shooting " page 23 ( they mark UX150 as A85 Diagram ).
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August 02, 2018, 10:31:00 AM
Reply #53
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kwakisaki

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Hmmm......Yes, I am thinking this is older than yours too......
- Possible information you have is newer.
- I cannot find anything older than this, so this may take sometime to resolve.
- The idents are different but I think may be similar circuit.
- I think 'Black box' contains older components than what you have there - Resistors for inrush/pre-charge/discharge purposes.

This could be interesting.......you may need to trace circuits out, so I try and get a list of what to look at.
- The fact it is just power cycling, we need to resolve and must be due to loose/missing wire.

1. I think this could be A50 or A51 Controller - What Robot Arm is supplied with it - Can you find image for rating plate?
2. In relay picture, I see white loose wire - can you confirm this?
3. Can you look/test screws on relay bases which are empty to see if tight, or loose - this may indicate if used previously or not?
4. Can you confirm if label is stuck on chassis near relays and let me know what they say CR3/CR1 for example?
5. Can you obtain image of 1BP jumpers?
« Last Edit: August 02, 2018, 10:57:33 AM by kwakisaki »
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August 02, 2018, 12:40:59 PM
Reply #54
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Nzhuhu


Thank you Kwakisaki,
The losen little white cable is mine, i was trying to copy from my controller.
I will get all information you need tomorrow. I am sure about relays their own working good, as i am put them into my controller, they work stable.

Back to my controller, the issue restart when press Motor Power is nearly solved:
Problem should be: Dead 100v Fan and press+hold still Deadmans switch when press Motor Power.
Remove dead 100v Fan then press Motor Power alone (no holdstill Deadman) is working!
Energizing motor and release break at same time is the problem !! Nearly 100% sure.
Another thing we should take note on this AD Controller Model UX150 version A55.

Thank you and God Speed,
Trung
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August 02, 2018, 07:10:57 PM
Reply #55
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kwakisaki

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Lol......I'm getting confused now with the Controllers...... :hmmm:
I think I need to back up a little.

Apologies first of all, it seems I have been misled by the other troubleshooting manual, however the way it powers up is the same, just different wire idents and small circuit differences.
- Now I am looking at a more closer troubleshooting manual, I think we can make some progress.

I'm getting the feel of these things now, the 'black box' in your friends is the main servo power unit (H/V on the PN terminals so be careful around there if it's on).
I think yours is mounted directly to Power Block, they both work the same way.


OK, so we're leaving your Friends Controller for now until you can get the details, so back to yours.

I am not 100% sure I am understanding:
- Have you got a single failed fan in Controller, or are all fans not working? - I think you can disconnect ALL fans for test.
- Can you move robot in Teach without controller restarting, I thought you said you could get motion now?

From what I read/see, the 100VAC Supply lines in the Controller are the critical ones to maintain Controller Power, so I think this would be a good place to start, connect a DVM directly to the Transformer Secondary terminals on wires X10 and Y10 and monitor this AC Voltage during your initial test, if this goes low when the controller restarts, then there is an overload and we will need to progress from there by isolating circuits branched off from it to find the problem area.
The other areas would be to look at CR1 to CR4 Relays and check continuity and which ones are dropping out.



« Last Edit: August 02, 2018, 08:22:57 PM by kwakisaki »
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August 03, 2018, 04:30:04 AM
Reply #56
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

You are Professional Engineering and you get confused so put your feet in my shoe and share my feeling lol. But I am lucky to have your passionate so everything will work out and fine.

First with my AD - A5 controller Box, couple of days ago I told you it get restart here is the sequence which made the trouble:

Power On ----> Clear Error ---> Holdstill Deadmans Switch and press Motor Power at same time ( 1 dead Fan inside Air Kicker still attach ) ----> System Restart
---> After couple restart ----> Motor Power accepted ----> achive Motion on Robot Arm

My Solution : Remove 1 Dead Fan 100v of Air Kicker Unit + Press Motor Power only ( not Holdstill Deadmans Switch )

Power On ----> Clear Error ----> Press Motor Power only ----> Motor Power accepted ----> Achive Motion on Robot Arm.
Once Motor Power Accepted ----> Turn on Teach Pendant ----> Press and Release Deadman Switch will always Open/Close the Motor Breaks.

Second is my friend's Controller Box AD - A52 I believe. Please do have a look at all pictures and correct me.

The Problem is at Original Status Power On - Relays not working ( do not have Closed Circuit between EpCom-EpOff-EpOn or wiring link between 3 of them )
After Wiring Link - Closed Circuit between EpCom-EpOff-EpOn top Relay keep restart cycle.
Checked all Screws on Relays, they are intact to confirm No Wire Screws are intact not missing or losen.
The Label of CR1/CR3 have been add in picture for correct and easy to understand.
All the Jumper and SW of BP Board are in the picture.

Please do advise me if you need anything.

Thank you to you Kwakisaki,
Trung
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Today at 03:46:54 AM
Reply #57

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August 03, 2018, 05:39:51 AM
Reply #57
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kwakisaki

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Ok, some good pictures/information and also same type of Controller (A55) and Robot arm (UX150).......so this is good at least we have some comparison between the 2.... :top:

First your Controller:

I am confused with your process between dead fan attached/disconnected:

Can you try ONLY this procedure with and without fans connected:
1. Power on controller.
2. Write down any error displayed and try and clear it (if error, let me know).
3. When no error, press Motor Power.
4. With Motor on, makes sure Controller Hold/Run is in Run.
5. Press and hold in deadmans (do nothing else on Teach Pendant - just deadmans).
- Contactors should energise and brakes release and robot should remain stable, no error, no restart - please check this and report result.

If restart:
- Does plasma display unit turn off/on.
- Does CR1, CR2, CR3 turn off/on - Please, these are critical to allow to troubleshoot.
- Can you measure 100VAC wires on Transformer X10 and Y10 and tell me voltage when powered up and stable, and also during restart.

Second your Friends Controller:
- I shall check pictures/settings to see what I can see.
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August 03, 2018, 06:48:38 AM
Reply #58
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

I did the same as the instruction you wrote down here as i quoted and we did make the robot arm moving, we did solved the problem.

" Can you try ONLY this procedure with and without fans connected:

     Please NOTE, the single 100v Dead Fan of Air Kicker Unit is removed for it own good - So I will replace it soon and run the same instruction below to see if I get any restart issue or not.

1. Power on controller.
Removed single 100v Dead Fan of Air Kicker Unit and turn the Power On
2. Write down any error displayed and try and clear it (if error, let me know).
No error
3. When no error, press Motor Power.
Pressed Motor Power Alone not include Holding DeadMans switch and Motor Power On
4. With Motor on, makes sure Controller Hold/Run is in Run.
Yes Turn both Nod to Teach / Run
5. Press and hold in deadmans (do nothing else on Teach Pendant - just deadmans).
Press and Hold Deadman result is the Brakes did release.
- Contactors should energise and brakes release and robot should remain stable, no error, no restart - please check this and report result.
- Everything work good for now. I mentioned about this problem and solution on last post for us to write note or memorize it for future use."

Best Regards,
Trung


I am back !! ( Terminator movie action lol )

As the Troubleshooting A5x A7x Document I received from you on page 28, I did make some calculating of Relays cables in and out.
I find out there are 2 cables missing on Relay 3. Please do have a look at my draw, I am sure I am missing some other cable on the draw because I have not find it out yet.
« Last Edit: August 03, 2018, 08:07:21 AM by Nzhuhu »
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August 03, 2018, 10:10:43 AM
Reply #59
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kwakisaki

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Heehee......Good man.
- So failed fan (airkicker) was causing restart.
- Now removed Controller power up and stable and can move freely with no errors using Teach Pendant.

Ok, so now your Friends Controller.
- Yes, I see both those cables are missing and that is what concerns me.....why?
- That is why I ask if you could inspect terminals on relay closely to see if evidence of cables being there (if they were tight, loose etc).
- I am wondering whether those cables are required or not for stable power.
- According to diagram, they are not.

In current condition, can you describe the following when Controller restarting:
1. Can you see if these connections (see attached) exist on Power Block B and if there are wires on connectors.
2. Is there stable voltage on Transformer wires X10 and Y10 whilst Controller is restarting.
3. Is there stable voltage on Transformer wires X20 and Y20 whilst Controller is restarting.
4. Are CR1, CR2 or CR3 turning on/off - if so, which ones.

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August 03, 2018, 01:29:39 PM
Reply #60
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

First I do not know where is CR2 but i have notice when power on only CR1 respone and keep on/off and CR3 do nothing
When power on the very Big unit behind the door i belive it is Block A Block B which you mentioned, all the fan of BlockA and Block B are turn on/off with CR1 relay signal.
Tomorrow i will trace those 4 wires as your picture back to the big unit behind door to see where it connect. I will attach picture.
Thank you very much,
Trung
« Last Edit: August 03, 2018, 01:31:28 PM by Nzhuhu »
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August 03, 2018, 03:37:05 PM
Reply #61
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kwakisaki

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See attached for location of CR2.

Ok, so if you only think CR1 is coming on and off and CR3 is doing nothing.
- According to circuit, CR1 coil is controlled from CR2 N.O, so CR2 is likely to also be going on and off too.
- CR1 contacts also power to fans and also power to wire P11.
- Wire P11 connects to BXCN5B.
- I am pretty certain BXCN5B also share connections to BXCN5A.
- BXCN5A supplies the CRx relays.
- These supplies come from AVR into 1BP Board.

I think you need to take some voltage measurements.
- Maybe also pull out CR1 (for temp test).
- Check CR2
- Check AVR supply input and output stability.
- Check stable voltage into Controller - Balanced 3 phase, could have phase missing.
« Last Edit: August 03, 2018, 04:52:17 PM by kwakisaki »
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August 04, 2018, 11:51:23 AM
Reply #62
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

Here I quoted your instruction and the Result:

1. Can you see if these connections (see attached) exist on Power Block B and if there are wires on connectors. There are Connection on both Power Block A and Power Block B marking PBB-CN7, PBB-CN8. Traced them and I got a Link from X11 Y11 from CR1 to PBB-CN7, PBB-CN8 can not get a Link unfortunately.
2. Is there stable voltage on Transformer wires X10 and Y10 whilst Controller is restarting. Very Stable at 97vac
3. Is there stable voltage on Transformer wires X20 and Y20 whilst Controller is restarting. Very Stable at 24.8vac
4. Are CR1, CR2 or CR3 turning on/off - if so, which ones. CR2 active first then CR2, CR3 doing nothing. Cycle On/Off for CR2 --->CR1 only.

- Maybe also pull out CR1 (for temp test). Removed CR1
- Check CR2. CR2 and CR3 still connect. CR2 cycle On/Off for almost 2mins then it keep ON.
- Check AVR supply input and output stability. AVR stable at 98vac in and 24.7vdc Out.
- Check stable voltage into Controller - Balanced 3 phase, could have phase missing. All 3 phase from Main power are stable at 379vac.

Here is the weird thing, after measurement suddenly the CR1, CR2 are holding the contact for almost 1min, the Screen is on with the warning and after approximate 1min the Screen is restart as the CR1 CR2 doing their restart Cycle. Please have a look at attach picture. I remembered, i turn all 3 CB off, and turn on 1 CB after CB then that weird thing happen

I switched CR2, still having the same problem. Found badly broken fan under Power Block A + B, removed them, removed X11 Y11 ( or 10 i do not remember ) which supply power to all the Door Fan. The Problem Still exit.

Please NOTICE, CR1 - CR2 doing the restart so the Screen and the Teach Pendant doing the restart also.
Just to be sure the DB1 with X21 top left, Y21 bottom left, P20 top right, N20 bottom right. Does it a part of the problem ?

PS: On Page 82 they mention of Breaker NFB since our Controler do not have it, i wonder what thing replace it.
« Last Edit: August 04, 2018, 12:21:02 PM by Nzhuhu »
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August 04, 2018, 12:40:56 PM
Reply #63
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kwakisaki

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I must commend you for your perseverance with this, for someone who is not electrical, you certainly have the skills...... :top:

Ok, so we have some progress......excellent.....wont be long now before Mrs Kawasaki is spinning her joints for us.

Response to yours:
- Power Block A and Power Block B should have CN7 connected with 100vac from CR1 N.O Contact - so that's good.
- Power Block A and Power Block B should have CN8 connected with BX CN1 (I think lower voltage - but I would not concern with CN8 for now).
- Your incoming supplies are good and stable that removes any supply incoming issues - Ok, so we're into the Controller now.
- I think CR3 may stay off anyway until we ask for motor power, so not concern too much with that at the moment
- CR1 and CR2 are cycling then.

Faulty fan will not help, but as long as it's removed, wont cause any further issues.

If you look at drawing, CR1 contacts supply voltage to Display (PDU), so this will go on and off.

Ok, so if you can:
1. Check if 1BP LED'S also going on/off.
2. DB1 is rectifier for DC supply to 1BP board for Brake circuits etc - Could you measure this voltage - is DC.
3. Can you disconnect Robot Harnesses too (during test) - do not worry about errors (I assume you have these also connected).
4. Can you tell what the cable is ident (see attached)
5. AVR1 in card rack could have capacitor charge up issue or overload, you could replace with yours to test.



 
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Today at 03:46:54 AM
Reply #64

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August 04, 2018, 01:13:39 PM
Reply #64
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

I am very please for your commend. I do not know where and when i had learn it, maybe when I am helping some guys doing electric maintenance. I am just helping around so some guys they will not hesitate to tell me how to check how to use Digital Multimeter ( well i have to google translate from VietNamese language to English and compare picture too ) LOL.

1. Check if 1BP LED'S also going on/off. Yes Clearly 100% sure I see 1BP's Led are on off and 1AE 9ZA's Led are on off too i think.
2. DB1 is rectifier for DC supply to 1BP board for Brake circuits etc - Could you measure this voltage - is DC. I will check tomorrow or maybe sunday ( right now is 8pm Saturday Night )
3. Can you disconnect Robot Harnesses too (during test) - do not worry about errors (I assume you have these also connected). For all the Test from the beginning of this Thread, the Controller Box stand alone no connect to Robot Arm, unless Controller is Ready.
4. Can you tell what the cable is ident (see attached). The Cable is J8 or J9, I will confirm it soon.
5. AVR1 in card rack could have capacitor charge up issue or overload, you could replace with yours to test. Please help me by Mark it with circle or anything so i can identify what is AVR1.

Thank you very much !!! Please enjoy your Lovely Weekend.
Trung
« Last Edit: August 04, 2018, 01:15:10 PM by Nzhuhu »
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August 04, 2018, 01:21:30 PM
Reply #65
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kwakisaki

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Heehee......Good man, you seek assistance which is good, but remember, be safe first, if not sure ask.... :top:

Ok, so 1BP Led's also on/off too and always arm disconnect, excellent.
- I think you try your AVR1 in this unit and see what result is.
- You will not cause any issues by removing/swapping for test, so don't worry - plug and play, Always turn Controllers OFF always when changing boards
- See attached for AVR1, this you can swap for test.
- Yes, I think cable is CN8 or CN9, I just wanted to confirm.

Have good evening and see if you can measure voltage and test swap AVR1 tomorrow.
Enjoy the weekend too.



« Last Edit: August 04, 2018, 01:30:48 PM by kwakisaki »
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August 06, 2018, 07:45:13 AM
Reply #66
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

How was your weekend ? Please do not tell me you were working on my case.

First - I swaped the AVR1 ---> Turned the Power on nothing up ! Spotted the AVR 24vdc ( I have circle the Device in picture ) has no Green Led on.....BUMPED me !
Swapped that AVR ----> Green LED is on ----> CR1, CR2 restart cycle ----> Mesurement the DB1 : X21, Y21 Red Line input stable 24.8vac and P20,N20 Blue Line output stable 21,2vdc.
Dead End Road for me ----> Removed all the Cards again, see 1BP having JP1 ( do not know what to do so let it stay ), ZR board removed and put back secure all the Jack connection again.
Then WAH LA..... SCREEN is ON without Restart got the screen shoot.
1 Cable at Block A, Block B is J9.
1 Cable's label J5 i do not know what to do.
Anyway, let both of them open the screen still on.

Second - Turned it off, swap the AVR1 Original back to it and Wah la.....Screen is on again with teach pendant.
Had some error, cleared them all but Error 509 still exit.

Conclusion: AVR 24vdc should be the problem ( luckily it dead at right time so it should be not a trouble anymore )
                 ZR Card or BP Card or all the Cards were not surely contact with BX or any Jack Connection was not secure. But I am surely they should be good because I found the little sticker on AVR1 mention 2011 year, I suppose that mean this Controller Box been check on 2011. I think Me is the mistake, at the beginning there was no Link between EpCom-EpOff-EpOn so nothing happen - then I decided to remove all the card for pictures. Yes I might not secure the Card when putting them back.

We did success to bring the Screen on for more inspection but still not 100% what cause the problem.
Well a Happy Day for me atleast !!

Thank you Kwakisaki,
Trung

PS: Extra Badly Damage Fan under Power Block A,B picture
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August 06, 2018, 05:51:38 PM
Reply #67
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kwakisaki

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Lol, I always have busy weekend, at moment I am building a mini servo gripper using Arduino and making with 3D Printer, but many problems with my measurements.....not so good.

Hmmmm.....ok you do a lot and I see some positive results at least.
- You'll be a Kawasaki Robotics Service Engineer soon for A55 Controller in Vietnam Province, start your own business perhaps?


J5 cable is labelled in manual for C/F Fan (not too sure where this is located, but Japanese only give you correct length of wire, so I expect if unconnected, then location of fan is close by/been removed/not fitted as it is an option).
- I think J9 and J5 do not worry (check in yours if the same exist/unconnected).

Yes, fan damaged quite bad, but easily replaced I think.

OK, so I see result seem to be based around AVR (So let's check this item more accurately).
- So can you remove P10 and N10 cables from AVR (make note of locations) and power up again.
- Measure Output on AVR where P10 and N10 were connected to.
- This voltage must be at least 23.5 Vdc (no lower, if lower, then adjust needed on potentiometer to increase to max 24.5vdc).
- Then connect P10 and N10 again and power up.
- Measure voltage again, if this voltage has dropped, then possible external overload is causing AVR to reduce output, or possible faulty AVR.
- If voltage ok, then maybe AVR ok......but will puzzle me......
- It is possible you may not have located cards correctly, but for now as it is on.....we take result and have beers.... :beerchug:

Ok, so error messages plenty, but you managed to clear all but Error -590 (I never seen this before).
- So you definitely cannot clear this error.
- Please check connections in attached image 1DF connections behind Plasma Panel and also status of LED's.
- Also check connections on front of 9ZA board (CN5) are secure, comms between 9ZA and 1DF may have issues here (This is a guess).

There is progress though........if you can clear error, and rezero, possibile moving test next.......good work my friend...... :bravo:
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August 07, 2018, 01:06:38 AM
Reply #68
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

Wow, you are arduino fan. I like arduino but since it open source or something, i am quite feel disecure. Anyway you were enjoy your weekend is a lovely thing i like to hear. Luckily you have your own machine so you can redo it, one time i was bring some steel material to CnC shop for mill and leathe. They did it beautiful but just 1 slight difference, inside diameter 1millimiter bigger than my draw. " Why ? Oh i lost your page so i use normal tube to mesurement " yeah normal water tube huh. But i still have to pay and bring my stuff back. Then make alot of call, find address and go to another shop...... the 4th shop did it good. It took alots of effort just to do some DIY stuff.

Back to my friend's controller, the dead AVR produce no Vdc out lol.
I did nothing on clear error, just pressed Clear button lol.
I will update more process later.
I dont think i will doing any business with robot service. In my country machinery business is Hit and Run business. I do not see much owner 100% commit to it.
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August 07, 2018, 12:37:33 PM
Reply #69
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

Updated on my process....let start from the beginning.
Turn on the Controller Box Alone ---> On/Off Cycle Again ---> Swap that AVR1 ( original ) with other ---> Controller Box On immediately on first try ---> Having Error -590....Code is e2 and e0

 ---> Turn it off ---> Remove all the Card and put them back, making sure having good connect with BX Board and adjust AVR Vdc out at 24.5vdc as your requested ---> Turn on, error Motor Hot, 600 Motor Power Off

---> Turn off, making link between Ep-EMG and EpCom as you taught me before ---> Connect all 3 cable with my Robot Arm ---> Turn on, clear all Error, press Power Motor, restart

---> Turn on again, screen on with all information, let it wait for 30second then clear Error ---> Press Power Motor, accepted ---> Turn on Teach Pendant ---> Hold Deadman ---> Robot Arm move as wanted.

Conclusion : 2 units provide Vdc are dead and causing short Circuit are AVR and AVR1 maybe include new found Idle Fans on top of Board Case Unit
                   Since the age of controller box so all the connection between all boards with BX Board are not really fit each other ( old metal, expand or wihte rust )so should have to find a way to put them back and making sure good connect by pulling it out lightly to test the Bond Strength.
                   Because of the age of all Power Unit include Transformer. Should or Must have to wait atleast 30second start from the Screen is Loaded for all the Power Provide Unit to get stabled.

Hopefully tomorrow it will just turn on normally then we can happy with it. I am not sure you know about the 4 fan on top of Board Case Please see picture. Those fans are connecting with J5 cable, they are IDLE Power in but can not move so make alot of heat. I disconnect the J5 but without those Fan will AVR1 getting too Hot ? I let the Controller Box run more than 30mins without those 4 Fan, the AVR getting under 50 Celcius Degree, at that time only Air Kicker Unit running. It look quite hard for me to remove those Fan, screws secure those Fan are hidden on top of the Case and that case having 4 screws secure to the back panel of controller box about 40cm deep to reach it. Maybe an Easy way is remove AD controller Screen then remove top Panel by Drilling those Rivet Nut then secure it back with Bolt and Nut.

I really need your help to identify Encoder Line Colours so I can soldering them directly because it broken please see picture. In the picture that Male Jack is broken ( hopefully not damage the Encoder ) and Female Jack is badly damage. My friend's robot arm need alots of thing to do compare to mine.... The Encoder having 14 wire out and model of Ac Servo Motor is MFA420FY0BS

Thank you very much Kwakisaki,
Trung
« Last Edit: August 07, 2018, 12:44:52 PM by Nzhuhu »
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August 07, 2018, 05:47:33 PM
Reply #70
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kwakisaki

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Heehee......I'm getting confused again......

A and AD Controller have very quick boot up period - from memory, I think no longer than 1min from isolator on, to be running.
This keeps sounding to me that the problem is capacitors inside either or both AVR units as you describe after period of time, system appear stable.

Capacitor provide charge for circuit, if age is old (just like me), capacitor become like resistor and take longer time to charge if charge up is even possible.
- Cannot charge to full voltage/full current.
- Result in reduced output volts/current.
- External equipment current demand exceed capability of power supply, so power supply overload, go into current limit and shutdown for protection and restart.

I don't think the removal of boards etc is causing restart issues.....I think this could just be age issue.....(just like me and my creaking joints.....heehee).

I would inspect AVR and AVR1 for age issue (capacitor bulge/out of shape), obtain replacement capacitors and replace and retry.

Does your friends controller be stable when/if you use your AVR and AVR1?
- If so then, before power up tomorrow, replace your friends AVR and AVR1 for yours.
- So everything cold and if power up and stable first time, then definite AVR/AVR1 problem


Oh yes......C/F......stand for Card File (I should have know this) = Card Rack which contain AVR1,9ZA etc...... :top:
These fans should run all time from power up.
- J5 cable fed from CR1 N.O Contacts after power on.
- If CR1 on, C/F Fans should be on.

Reference Motor and Encoder connections, the recent troubleshooting manual I sent does not contain the motor model your referring to.
However, if you check the AD_Electrical_Maintenance.pdf I sent you (the one with red color band on front cover).
- Section 7 and 7.6.4, this contains list of motors and that model is there.
- Appendix Section A and A.6.5 shows encoder pinout and A.6.6 shows motor connector pinout.

This is all the information I have found for that motor model no, I hope this helps with damaged connector.
« Last Edit: August 07, 2018, 08:21:21 PM by kwakisaki »
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Today at 03:46:54 AM
Reply #71

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August 08, 2018, 12:55:40 AM
Reply #71
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

Yes i did replace my AVR and AVR1 for his controller to test. He might going to the junk yard to buy the spare controller box so i can replace for him. Definately his AVR and AVR1 are causing the trouble, as i have manage to set correct the Vdc out put on AVR to 24.5vdc, i wonder is there an easy way to check out put on AVR1 so we can recorrect.

So what are you suggest on those 4 IDLE Fans? Remove the Card File, take quite sometime and might be miss or damage the boards due to my low skill. Or just open up the top cover of the controller box?

With damage connector, i think i will open the good working condition connector and copy it. Hope fullly ị will work.
I see your email mention 69 maybe i am only 14yrs younger than you. That mean 4 beers for you and 1 for me.

Thank you very much Kwakisaki,
Trung

PS: I have an Idea, it should work on all our controller when need to replace all Power Supply. For AVR1, I need to find the Pin where all VDC coming out and in to BX, remove the Jack ( male or female ) which connect to BX from AVR1. Because I have already know what pin suppy what vdc so I will connect that Jack to BX and let it be there forever, soldering cable to the back of that Jack, those cable will connect to 2 invidual brand new VDC power supply which are 5v and 12v.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2018, 03:45:39 AM by Nzhuhu »
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August 08, 2018, 06:51:36 AM
Reply #72
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kwakisaki

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Me 69...not that old,  still have many years before that number is reached..... :ts:
- But I stll have 4 beers, thank you... :party2:

Yes, AVR's seems to me to be root of problems, if it is capacitor problem, maybe you have electronics repair shop to replace, or you could replace yourself with your new found skills?

I am not sure about fan replacement (not familiar with access panels).
- Plasma Unit is optional display, so I think removal of unit give access from the top of controller for easy removal.
- Also possible to remove complete Card Rack Chassis I think, but may also be difficult.
- Yes, if fans have rivet to secure, would need to drill out to replace.

For AVR1 adjustment in Card rack, no need to find pins on BX, test pins already available on 9ZA board (top of board - small ring pins).
- See attached (Page 4-49 from manual).
- Attach DVM (DC Measure with respect to GND) and adjust potentiometer for each power rail.
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August 08, 2018, 07:44:50 AM
Reply #73
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Nzhuhu


Dear Kwakisaki,

If you read my mention of Email so you will figure it out what I meant but let it be Top Secret !!
And yes, you are having so much passion than me, you can read all the manual which you sent to me and pointed out what I need to read....I have notice those Ring Pin but do not add it up !! Anyway I still have to find the Pin out on AVR1 ( 15 pins ), write it down - keep it for later use incase AVR1 dead I will process with my New Idea is using 2 inviduals Vdc power supply 5v and 12v. I will replace the Fan by open top panel. Today i am not working with Robot, tomorrow will be back lol.

Thank you very much Kwakisaki,
Trung

Ps: I have send you an PM message, please have a look.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2018, 08:17:02 AM by Nzhuhu »
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August 08, 2018, 11:58:56 AM
Reply #74
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kwakisaki

Global Moderator
Not sure what you mean about ring pins not add up...
DVM set at DC range, connect black/com wire of DVM to ring pin GND.
Connect red wire of DVM to +5v ring, measure voltage, if too low/high adjust with potentiometer.
Repeat for +12v and -12v ring pins....
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