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 Kawasaki UX150 A55 Help required to return to life

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July 27, 2018, 09:10:48 AM
Reply #25


Global Moderator
Ooooh........Looking good.......... :top:

I've not been around for a bit, and have just noticed the stage you are at.
So no encoder errors, and all joint angles are displaying angles within the usual limits.
- Looks like your cabling and zeroing data looks all intact too.....Bonus for sure.

Ok, sorry to hear about 'your disappointment' with not being able to move the robot, so lets see what we can do to get you away.

Motor Power will not turn on if:
1. There is an active hardware error.
2. Hardware Limit Switches (Mounted to the external Arm have been triggered).
3. The Safety Input Circuit is broken - ie Emergency Stop buttons pressed/failed.
4. The External Safety Input Interlock is not wired - the dedicated terminals for an External Emergency Stop.
5. The Deadmans is not pressed in before Motor Power button is pressed.

Your list is correct, BUT for Motor Power to become active, you have to have the Deadmans pressed first, then press Motor Power.
- Motor Power should light up then, and the main supply contactors should energise and the robot brakes release, allowing motion.
- If you release the Deadmans at any point, then motor power will turn off.
- So you need to repeat it again to turn motor power on.

Try, the above and see if it works.

If not, then we have to look at points 2-4 and see if we can resolve (point 1 is ok, as you have no hardware error showing).

Can you take good picture of TB1 terminal rail inside controller, I think links need to be made to EMG connections in order to Set Safety Interlock - I think this is external emergency stop and may be causing the issue, I need to check document to see if I can find correct information.
Does TB2 exist in your Controller anywhere - similar to attached.
Also Check Jumper and Connection to 9ZR Board CN3 - see attached - This would stop motor power. (External IO Manual I sent you)

Also, can you take good close picture containing ALL terminal rails inside controller - I think all at the bottom.

Your 'F' Keys should be applicable to what I have circled in attached.
- If they do not work, those keys maybe damaged.
- Do you have Physical Keyboard with that Controller too - This can be used also.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2018, 09:57:45 AM by kwakisaki »

Today at 01:30:08 AM
Reply #26



July 27, 2018, 10:52:35 AM
Reply #26


Thank you Kwakisaki,

Yeah i was very disapointed of myself. I was very upset, feel like I have no idea no knowledge to do something that I am sure I can learn.

I have check again and again, I do not see any mention of DeadMan Switch in any document, searching Google it show the Trigger Switch at the back of Teach Pendant.
I am very sure after Turn on Power, I did not pull and hold that Trigger Switch and press Motor Power on at same time. I only pressed Motor Power On alone after reset any error.
I hope that is the reason for the unsatisfy result. I will take photo of each part inside Controller box as soon as I can.
Sorry I do not have the Keyboard of it.

My best Regards,

July 27, 2018, 11:00:47 AM
Reply #27


Global Moderator
Sorry yes, Trigger and Deadmans is same.

Most common term is Deadmans........Kawasaki Manuals and errors say Trigger.....but same hardware, just different name.

So Press trigger, whilst holding trigger in, press motor power - should light, stay lit and contactors energise, releases brakes and robot can be moved.
- But if issue with safety connection, then motor power will not light.
- Check my other info I attach earlier for 9ZR board cn3 connector also.

July 27, 2018, 01:03:41 PM
Reply #28


Wow that is very fast reply from you. I have almost 20 pictures, please allow me to post it. I know it will take too much storage from our website, I am very sorry for that. But to coordinate the problem, the real picture will help alots for us and easy for someone later to learn from it.
Hopefully I am able to try the Deadmans instruction tomorrow. So here is the way to do it :

Power On ---> Teach - Run ---> Turn on Teach Pendant ---> Press plus Hold till Deadmans Switch/Button ( or Trigger Switch on the back of Teach Pendant as Kawasaki Manual describe ) and press Motor Power Button on the Controller Box.

If the Motor Power light is on moving to next step :

Select Join after press Join/Base/Tool button on Teach Pendant
---> Choose Medium Speed
---> Move any Axis freely

So During all that Press + Select + Move, I have to Press and Hold Still DeadMans or Trigger Switch at all time, am i right ?

Do you have any idea how to exit back to Original Screen after press F1 F2 F3,etc ?

July 27, 2018, 01:07:03 PM
Reply #29


I am very sorry for uploading pictures, please allow me and accept my apologies. Thank you very much !!!

July 27, 2018, 04:30:26 PM
Reply #30


Global Moderator
Lol....many pictures indeed.....

I think you need links or switches in TB1 between:
(See Attached - Can you trace blue cables - I think these go to CN3 Connection on 9ZR Board).

EXT-EMG = CN3 Pin No.3, ECOM = CN3 Pin No.21, EHLD = CN3 Pin No. 2
(refer to my earlier post with image of CN3 Jumper and Connections).

Can you upload picture of original screen you want to return to?
- My earlier post with yellow circle, F keys return to the option above the F key on screen.

Yes, there are several variations of order of operation, but some have to be carried out in order as they can prevent further operations.
A quick summary:

If in active E/stop, Hardware error or safety input circuit is activated - No Motor Power possible.
When Teach/Repeat Switch is toggled - Motor Power if on, turns off.
If Run/Hold is in Hold - Brakes will not release.
If Teach Pendant switch is not on - axis keys, speed, and interpolation mode (Joint/Base/Tool) Modes cannot be changed.

Therefore you just need:
Part A
- Controller On.
- No hardware error, All E/stops out, and Safety Circuit good.
- Run/Hold set to Run.
- Press and hold trigger.
- Press Motor Power once.
This should immediately activate contactor and release brakes - Robot is energised and being controlled and should not produce error - This will confirm safety and hardware is good

After that (whilst still pressing trigger):
Part B
- Turn Teach Pendant On (if pendant not on, the following cannot be changed).
- Select Interpolation Mode (Joint/Base/Tool).
- Select Manual Speed.
- Press required Axis Key for motion.
If you release trigger at any point, motor power turns off, just press trigger and hold in and press motor power once to activate again

Above is the long method...........

Part A is required so that Part B can be used.
Part B could be set first if you require - but Part A is fundamental and if that does not work, we need to investigate further - See earlier post.

July 28, 2018, 08:51:07 AM
Reply #31


Dear Kwakisaki,

I have traced the ext-emg, ecom and ehld line, they going to CN5 on the big mother board in the back. It mark BX-CN5A, right next to it is another jacks going out from mother board (i assum) mark BX-CN5B. To be continued

Today at 01:30:08 AM
Reply #32



July 28, 2018, 09:15:59 AM
Reply #32


Global Moderator many variations of this type of Controller, we do not want to make mistake and mis-wire.
So from what you say, those connections to BX-CN5A.
- Insert link on TB1 between EXT-EMG and ECOM and see if you can achieve Motor Power.
- This is supposed to be connected using and Emergency Stop Switch.

Also I think check 9ZR board for J5 Jumper on board.
- I attach image for you to check
« Last Edit: July 28, 2018, 09:32:29 AM by kwakisaki »

July 28, 2018, 12:39:05 PM
Reply #33


I laughing right now because I feel like we both walk into something that not usual. I think this robot controller been modify or upgrade to the last Factory's need. Please let me resume what I have learn.

According in our Manual 90202-1002 DEF - In the Controller there are 1 big Mother Board - name is BX board
There are 3 other Board connecting to it are :
AE Board out put No4 port - CN3 port to robot Arm - I actually have 1AE-54 Board
ZA Board out put signal to Controll Panel - I actually have 9ZA-11 Board
BP Board out put No3 port - CN1 and No2 port - CN2 - I actually have 1BP-55 Board

Also I do have the 4th Board is 9ZRI3 - 9ZR33 ( both mark on 1 board ) ----> Is it necessary ? I found it does, I pulled it out, turn on power and the Screen stuck saying no I/O signal.
Here is very tricky question for me, If ZR board is requied why there are no drawing in Manual.

About those 2 jumper J5 they put it both at 1-2 pin. Are you saying I have to change them both to 2-3 pin?

My theory is the ZR board is open communication to other device via PLC system ( as i learn it from you ). Because of other device is not functioning ( no respone to our Robot Controller or in my Case is I have no other Device ) so the Robot will standing-by. If that so, I hope we can find a way to get rid of that ZR Board.

I have found out there is page 42-47 mention of ZR Board as Sensor connection, I think i found it but again, is it a must to have ? Well all 4 CN cables from that ZR board is been cut without other half, if it is a must I think I will have to find and buy new cable or soldering it. And I have not locate or seen the port of all sensor cable coming out from Robot Arm.

Well, fix and learn are the good way to memories everything !!!
I will attach all 4 board picture, please do have a look.

Very Very Very THANK YOU Kwakisaki !!!
« Last Edit: July 28, 2018, 12:42:05 PM by Nzhuhu »

July 28, 2018, 12:46:22 PM
Reply #34


Global Moderator
I laughing right now because I feel like we both walk into something that not usual. I think this robot controller been modify or upgrade to the last Factory's need.

This could well, be it may take sometime to get it going.....BUT at moment, it is in very good condition to operate.
- We just need to overcome small obstacle.

Please don't get overcome with all jumpers/settings......we need to make sure we have correct wiring for Robot Operation/Motion.
- Sensors, IO signals can be looked at after.

OK, I missed your question above regarding 9ZR Board
- System configuration will be set to IO signals.
- If board missing, then IO errors will occur.
- So leave board connected and remove all CN cables from front, so all unconnected and board plugged in correct slot.
- Yes, this board is required for communication with external device such as PLC.
- But.....Information I have also includes possible connection requirement for Safety Circuit.
- This what J5 jumpers are for, so possible we need connection to 9ZR board.......but picture you provide say no requirement.
- But leave board in, with nothing connected on front for now.

The pictures you have provided are excellent and information we have between us, we should be able to succeed.....but please have patience, we will succeed.
- I have spare time over weekend to study boards and information and hopefully we get result soon.

Have you attached link/emergency stop to connection on TB1 like I ask?

With your list of boards now, I think we can now use AD Electrical Maintenance Manual to fix - Did I send you this Manual?
« Last Edit: July 28, 2018, 01:07:51 PM by kwakisaki »

July 28, 2018, 01:20:27 PM
Reply #35


Look like we both so ready for this " obstacle "  :bravo: . Sorry Kwakisaki, I have not do it but I will do it on Monday for sure. Did you mean to make a Jump by connecting EXT-EMG and Ecom, you want me to do like the red line on the left of picture or red line on the right of picture ?

Also my brain was a head of my eyes, J5 has 2 invidual jumper 123 ( Off Motor Power ) and 456 ( HOLD - another way to unable to turn on Motor Power because Controller on HOLD - I assumed ) as manual say and the board describe. I think we should turn them into UNUSED condition ( I hope it mean No Out Side - External Communication to Control the Controller ). This afternoon I did it but only half way, I was only turn 12 to 23 and let 45 stay still so still External Holding. I hope this idea might be correct, please teach me explain to me if it is wrong.

Anyway, when i remove the ZR Board, they put them at 12 and 45 so both Motor Power Off and HOLD are active for External Used.

Well Kwakisaki, we are no rush. Please do enjoy your Weekend !!
My Big Regards,

PS: Yes I have that AD-Electrical Maintenance. I will learn it soon.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2018, 01:24:25 PM by Nzhuhu »

July 28, 2018, 01:26:40 PM
Reply #36


Global Moderator
This is good challenge, if life was simple, it would be bring on the challenges I say.......

Yes, like red line on left.
- This is intended for Emergency Stop Switch - so by placing in link it is bypassed.
- It is possible this could be only problem.
- But it is required.

Provide a list of what LED's are on the 1BP board, these may help trace problem if still no motor power

Also my brain was a head of my eyes
Excellent comment........I call it chasing your tail.

I shall look at your pictures of jumpers and compare with information from manuals and see if all ok.

Enjoy yours too............. :beerchug:
« Last Edit: July 28, 2018, 07:06:32 PM by kwakisaki »

July 29, 2018, 11:43:08 AM
Reply #37


Hello Kwakisaki,

About Emergency Stop Button on AD controller and Teach Pendant. I checked them out, both of them are functioning and respone, testing by Press it and turn it clockwise to release the button, both of them are working good.

Eternal emergency stop signal -----> The 4 CN wires from ZR board are being cut off so there is no signal coming in to put Emergency stop on but I think there is a chance the HOLD being active to wait for External Signal.

" 9ZR or 1BP board, 1BP board connector, wiring on the panel " - completely do not understand lol.

Tomorow Monday, I will do Move all the J5 of ZR board to 23 and 56 ( plus remove all the Cable coming from that board ), if not I will turn them back to 12 45 as original.

Then I will do the Wire Link on TB1, if not success.
We will dig deeper. Oh I will taking picture of all LED in the controller box when it is on, each board as clear as possible.

Thank you Kwakisaki,

July 29, 2018, 12:18:42 PM
Reply #38


Global Moderator
1BP jumpers:
- JP3 and JP5 are set to Standard, so I think set correct.
- It is possible that LS signals are required according to SW1.
- LS are for Limit Switches fitted to Robot Arm - These are also safety function, if open circuit, no motor power..
- Can you check Robot Arm for physical switch or leftovers of old ones mounted externally on Robot Casting for Joint 1, Joint 2 and Joint 3.
- If not fitted, may need to also adjust SW1 as in attached.

I think if you set 9ZR jumper J5 to 23 56, then no need for connection to 9ZR board as not to be used.

For information:
- External Hold does not stop motor power, only error or safety does.
- External Hold only used in Repeat Mode, so robot should still be able to move in Teach without need of this signal.

Today at 01:30:08 AM
Reply #39



July 29, 2018, 01:06:20 PM
Reply #39


On the AD_Electrical Maintenance Document which you sent to me, on page 39 there is a drawing of small box with 115v ac jack, Fuse, 2 open slot and 1 Square button ( I do remember color of it is Green ), yes I do have it on my controller box and if not mistake it say Overided LS under that Green Button. It is press and release kind of button with crystal clear Acrylic cover it, when using it i have to lid the cover up and press the button ( totally feel very important button ).

Yeah i will find and open all small pocket cover on my robot to find that LS switch.

July 29, 2018, 01:26:40 PM
Reply #40


Global Moderator
Yes that is the LS Override.
- LS is overtravel protection. - for example: if Joint hit obstacle (Cell surround or Overhead pipes for example), then LS switch fitted to that joint to cut off motor power if overtravel too close.

If LS activates during normal operation, then button needs to be pressed and held in, then motor power on and move robot until LS switch become good.
The LS switches should be visible (usually if fitted) around Joint 1 Circular Cast (Prevent overtravel for rotation of main body) and possibly Joint 3 (prevent overhead overtravel).

So you have a couple of things to look at on Monday:
- TB1 Connection.
- LS Existent - if so, check cables ok and not active/if not then reconfigure SW1 on 1BP board to mask.
- Set 9ZR jumper J5 for no use setting and remove front connections.
- when working..... :top:

July 30, 2018, 08:52:28 AM
Reply #41


Dear Kwakisaki,

I have very good News and very abnormal thing so we can remember.
After everything I have done with all the task you gave me :

TB1 Connection, Wiring Link EXT-EMG with E-Com on the left side of TB1 - DONE
LS is not existent but have open the Joint 1 base - found 2 Limit Switch, Press and test ( good respone and using clear error worked ), Joint 3 I only see Mechanical Limit stop no Switch  ( I could not open it ).
Set 9ZR Jumper J5 to NOT USE EXTERNAL both on Emergency and HOLD.

---> Not worked lol, i was very piss and look inside the controller Box :

Found 2 pairs of wire connecting with EMG+ , EMG- and IBE, IBEC with combo 3 phase power Cable wiring from Main CB in front of Controller Box.
Those EMG and IBE pair getting signal from Screen Controller, traced them and I found thing so unusual. As you can see at picture which I have attach:
Emergency Button have EMG - and IBEC signal from Small Blue Cables from the System.
But the EMG+ and IBE signal connection being connect to bigger Light Blue Cable from outside.
And the Original Small Blue EMG+ and IBE cables being connect to EMG- and IBEC bigger Ling Blue Cable.
---> I removed all the Big Light Blue cable and connect the Original EMG+ and IBE back to 2 left over spot in EMG button.

And Wah La, It worked. So i think in the last Factory they even have the BIG or Master Emergency Stop for all robot not invidial !
The robot moved quite slow in Teach Mode even using Triple Arrow Up for speed.

Yes, we did success but I am afraid not Fully Success. Here is my liltle troubles.

Some how, The Motor Power On sometime make the Controller Box restart itself. After turning the Main CB ( CP ) on, wait for Controller Loading itself, showing all screen and clear all error if have, then do I have to wait for some reason such as energy build up or anything to avoid the Restart Issue. Will the 100v Fan of Air Kicker ( cooler unit on right side of Controller Box ) is the reason, that Unit have 2 fan, 1 inhale and 1 exhale, the inhale is dead.
Do you have the Encoder wiring instruction on each Ac Servo Motor ? I would like to wiring them back because 1 of them is abit losen ( kind of minor broken - during transport ).

Would you please up for another Challenge, please say yes because I am moving to help my friend's Kawasaki robot, same model as mine just 3 years older I think.
I have open each board out and compare with my controller box and I found 1 different between 2 ZA board. Please look at the picture.
The issue of this controller Box is power in but nothing respone, 2 relays on top of TB1 have power coming from Right side but no thing coming out Left Side.

Anyway, I am very happy to day.
Thank you VERY MUCH to you KWAKISAKI,

July 30, 2018, 09:47:17 AM
Reply #42


Global Moderator
So progress and motion achieved.......... :top:

Yes, I have never seen that type of configuration and would not have considered it in this situation.
- This is what connection on TB1 is for - To be wired into main line (Master Estop Controller).......not at the back of E/Stop on Operation Panel.
- Excellent that you have found that.

So you achieve motion......Cool
- Ok, in Teach Mode, you will never achieve speed greater than 250mm/s.....This is safety regulation.
- But the fact you have free motion without error proves majority of hardware is good.

The Controller restart could be a number of problems:
- AVR Power Supply (left side of card rack) Aged Capacitors, overloaded by external short or Incoming supply not sufficient.
- System Logic supplies for CPU (9ZA, 1AE, 1BP, Encoders) are all supplied from AVR.
- So if AVR not providing voltage, then possible Controller reboot, or functionality errors occur.

Therefore, as when you do finally move it.......I believe hardware is good.
- But AVR may require repairing, or measure output supplies and increase outputs by adjusting potentiometers on front to within specification whilst measuring.
- Check Harness integrity (the one you repaired to make sure no short circuit occuring.
- Check incoming supply is stable/balanced on all 3 phases.
- You could disconnect all air kicker connections to prove fans are not cause - but yes, a fan going short circuit could cause issue.

Would you please up for another Challenge, please say yes because I am moving to help my friend's Kawasaki robot, same model as mine just 3 years older I think.
I have open each board out and compare with my controller box and I found 1 different between 2 ZA board. Please look at the picture.
The issue of this controller Box is power in but nothing respone, 2 relays on top of TB1 have power coming from Right side but no thing coming out Left Side.

Of course......see attached.
- Your friends controller needs these links in to power up.
- Picture of 9ZA you provide, could be earlier/prototype/bug fix board - not necessarily bad.

July 30, 2018, 11:13:43 AM
Reply #43


You know it is very honor to have all your help. I could not believe and this is my first time ever having support from someone who 100% help without hesitate. Even more we all do have work and personal things but you still saving sometime to help me. Please accept my hat off to you !! Shall we take quick relax and enjoy our achivement. If you do come to Saigon-Hochiminh city in future, you must have a drink with me  :beerchug:. Thank you very much.

July 30, 2018, 06:47:15 PM
Reply #44


Global Moderator
Your comments are very much appreciated and you're very welcome...... :goodposting:
I often travel and if I am ever passing, I shall drop you a PM for sure.

Helping to revive such an old Controller is a great challenge and I'm glad you are reaching a goal and learning along the way, so many thanks to you for bringing yourself to the forum, it's always a pleasure.
- Don't forget it is you doing all the hard work, learning, diagnosing and wiring, so you deserve a few drinks yourself (empty the barrel)... :weissbier:
- So you can now assist your friend with the other robot with your recent experiences.
- But don't forget about Robot Forum, we are all willing to assist in areas we can and when gratitude is shown, it only helps grow the community.

July 31, 2018, 02:47:30 AM
Reply #45


Dear Kwakisaki,

Bring the Robot back to life is my and our first step in the big plan. I would like to turn it into MILL machine or even Machine Center. Why would I do it.....there is a silly reason for it !
That will require lot of things but we can work step by step.
Ah i remember now, I will upgrade something also maybe screen, PSU,....
Oh do you have the Absolute Encoder wiring code or pin of Ac Servo Motor, I would like to have it because I willing to wiring them again.

Early July, I went to Industrial Mechanic Fair and Exhibitions in VietNam. There was 1 company showing KUKA Robot doing the Pick and Place task ( auto scan location of object ).
Technician guy also told me and my friend, their Robot can Carving Statue but their Boss ( or Manager, Supervisor ) did not even hello or having any communication with us.
Yeah he the boss does not welcome us so 3 of us decide to do it our own. We are lucky because I can find and buy anything from the JunkYard as long as that part being throw from Modern Country.

I will get back to Robot tomorrow, and update everything for you and every friend who need this kind of information about this robot.
Thank you Kwakisaki,

Today at 01:30:08 AM
Reply #46



July 31, 2018, 07:46:42 AM
Reply #46


Global Moderator
I would like to turn it into MILL machine or even Machine Center.
You have a big challenge ahead then, the robot is optimized for 150Kg Payload, plus the age, plus the technology available 22 years ago.
- It could possibly be optimized/improved on lower payloads down to 30% reduction, but no more, I think.

Industrial Robots are designed to offer repeatable accuracy, not necessarily an accurate position.
Advancement/development with newer technology, in conjunction with faster CPU/Processing and accurate motor control/positioning allow for modern robotic equipment to deliver better repeatable accuracy, but still a little behind the CNC equipment.

I do know that KUKA have good success with milling and machining accuracy, but not too sure about Kawasaki, especially when it's 22 years old too........You could be the first to achieve perhaps... :bravo:

I shall try and locate information from Motor/Encoder and send you what I find.

July 31, 2018, 09:31:46 AM
Reply #47


Yes you are very right Kwakisaki, when we think about Kuka their carving robot moving into profitting state. Also Yasakawa Motoman been used for real Steel or Aluminum Mill in Comet Project (show in youtube). The advance we do have are low cost accessory and time (include no deadline on the project, no standard for time consume when producing an object). What i hope to achive is we can make it happen, sacrify the speed to earn accuracy. I know saying is easy but we are making statue from wood so....we can do it.

Beside i still hope our robot as good as 1996 car been welded by this robot and still good working car untill today in my country. To be honest I dont know, do not have plan but we will do it and hopefully open a new page for Robot-Hobby same as CNC which it turn into Hobby State for everyone today (no more customer only, opening build for everyone, easy DIY and upgrade).
Thank you Kwakisaki,
« Last Edit: July 31, 2018, 09:34:00 AM by Nzhuhu »

August 01, 2018, 07:55:47 AM
Reply #48


Global Moderator
Several videos exist of Kawasaki if you do a search, so it is not a new thing.

I am not experienced this area at all, but read up on various topics.
- I hear there are limitations and potential purchase of expensive software to prepare data correctly.
- If you can achieve good accuracy, then the key link is to use program to draw 3d image, then slice image into layers and then prepare GCODE.
- Then convert GCODE to Kawasaki Program Language and load in Robot.

I locate Motor/Encoder Pinout for you for UX150 (see attached).
- I hope this helps.

August 01, 2018, 08:46:45 AM
Reply #49


Dear Kwasaki,
My friend controller is older than mine as we already agreed. I have make the link between EpCom-EpOn-EpOff but there is only 1 relay on top working ( keep on off ). All the fan include fan on the door behind big unit control all motor i believe, all 4  boards control have leds on but keep on off. I notice the contactor did not turn on and the below relay is doing nothing even switch both my relays in. Please do have a look my previous picture which having Black Power Supply Unit. Im driving at the moment so wont be saying much. Will be continued when i get home.

I am at home now. Please have a look at the Relays Compare Picture, my friend's controller does not have Link Between those 2 relays.

Thank you Kwasaki,

« Last Edit: August 01, 2018, 09:43:33 AM by Nzhuhu »

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